Duae Manus

Prepping For a Project

2009-06-09T10:39:00.003-04:00

Well, it certainly has been some time since I've posted here. Things have been quite busy. Even with the large amount of work going on, we have still managed to get some stuff done around the house.

Here are a couple of photos showing the beginning stage of another project we are starting on.

The back of my truck full of bricks. We found these brand new bricks for sale on craigslist. It came out to just under $0.11 a brick, not too bad since new bricks can easily cost 5 times that much.

Ten bricks on my bathroom scale weighed 36 pounds, therefore each brick averages 3.6 pounds. We had 455 bricks in the bed of the truck (as well as a heavy full-size spare tire with steel wheel which weighs a lot). If I hauled this kind of load more often, I would consider replacing the old leaf springs in the rear, but as is, the truck handled the load very well. It also helped that I serviced all four brakes earlier in the year.

Here are all the bricks neatly stacked and eagerly awaiting their job. What job will that be? I'll let you guess until we are done and post the results.

2009-05-27T15:49:00.002-04:00

Although much work still needs to be done and even more how-to articles written, I have decided to formally open my other site, How-To Matthew. How-To Matthew will focus more on the technical how-to in the DIY realm which will free Daue Manus to be a more fluidly flowing journal of our DIY [mis]adventures! Check it out!

Fun on the Roof

2009-05-22T15:18:00.005-04:00

We recently borrowed a very large extension ladder and one of the first jobs on our list was to do some minor roof work. Some caulk work needed to be done around the flashing on the dormer windows but we decided to also take a look at everything else while we were up there since this roof has recently gone through some very rough storms.

Here is the flashing on one of the chimneys. We will eventually need to work on this before it starts leaking.

The flashing on this chimney is less than a year old and is in good shape.

This vent's flashing will need some work as well.

Here are a couple of other views from our roof top.

What do you think, does our roof look like it is in good shape or should we be saving up time, energy, and money to replace it soon?

More Gardening Fun

2009-05-18T15:09:00.003-04:00

With the warm Spring temperatures and lots (and lots and lots) of rain we've had recently, everything is growing rapidly.

We put this child we were watching for our friends to work planting some green beans.

Here is the space an old shack used to sit on. Now that it is gone, we can expand our garden.

Here's the raised bed I made last Saturday. Moving those railroad ties was quite a chore by myself! I also had to excavate a lot of very clay-like soil. Later in the day my wife returned home and we added top soil and left over peat moss and manure, then she planted another garden of tomatoes.

This bed was where we had a good crop of tomatoes last year. As you can see, it is full of tomato plants sprouting. These plants are "wild" offspring from last year's crop.

And our strawberries are also doing well. Some are even blossoming. You probably can't tell in this photo, but the beans the child planted a week ago are starting to come up as well.

Planting Raspberries

2009-05-12T09:14:00.005-04:00

One of our projects this past Sunday was cleaning out the small area between the back of the garage and the retaining wall that marks the rear of our lot. We then filled it with a mix of dirt from the other side of the back yard where a dilapidated shed used to stand and left over peat moss and manure from our dwarf fruit tree planting project.

We now have six raspberry plants growing in what used to be an unused and unsightly corner of our yard.

Another possible benefit of these plants is that if they get nice and thick, their thorny stalks may help reduce the number of feral cats that like to stray into our yard and try to get into places they shouldn't be.

Under Construction

2009-05-08T01:00:00.002-04:00

I am working on a completely new site for all the how-to articles that will be more user friendly, have more DIY articles, and have much more content. Duae Manus will remain as our day-to-day journal of DIY adventure.

Creating the new site is a daunting task, and in order to get it up and running in a timely fashion, there will be few new posts on Duae Manus. Stay tuned for further announcements!

Checking and Replacing a PCV Valve

2009-05-07T01:00:00.000-04:00

The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve is part of an emissions system designed to divert gasses than escape past the piston rings back to the air intake to be burned by the engine.

I will describe how to check and replace a PCV valve using my 1996 Ford Ranger as an example.

1. Locate the PCV valve. It will usually be on a valve cover or somewhere around the top of the engine.

2. Disconnect the hose from the valve.

3. Pull the valve out and shake it. It should rattle. If it doesn't rattle, the valve is plugged and needs to be replaced. Also check the hose by disconnecting it and blowing through it to check to see if it is clogged.

4. Installation is the reverse of these steps.

Replacing the PCV valve is an inexpensive maintenance item you should consider doing every few years. In the case of the Ranger with the 4.0L engine, it is a ~$2 and five minute preventative maintenance job that can keep your engine and emissions system in top shape.

Fixing a Leaking Sink Drain

2009-05-06T01:00:00.000-04:00

Leaking plumbing is never fun to deal with, but at least when a drain leaks, the water is not pressurized like with a water line leak.

I recently discovered a slow leak from one of the two drains in our kitchen sink. Unfortunately, this was a drain I installed seven months ago, so I was fixing a problem I created. Ah, such is the life of a do-it-yourself person!

Find the Leak
The first step in fixing a leaking drain is determining where the leak is coming from. This may not always be as simple as finding the water droplets, because the droplets of water can travel far from the leak location before they fall to the ground. Keep in mind that water obeys the law of gravity, so if you follow a water trail up to its highest point, that will usually be the source of the leak.

The blue arrow in this photo shows where some water was collecting. The PVC pipe above was also wet. The pipes and drain to the left were completely dry, so I knew they were not the culprit. After using a flashlight, I could see that the drain itself was leaking, not the pipes.

Fixing a Leaking Sink Drain
Now that I knew what part of the drainage system under the sink was leaking, it was only a matter of fixing it before it got any worse.

Luckily for me, this was a quick fix. I would only need three things:

Plumber's Putty
Teflon (Plumber's) Tape
Channel Lock Pliers

1. Place a large bowl or small bucket under the pipes to catch any water.
2. In order to remove the drain, I had to first unscrew the first connector (first photo).
3. Then, I removed the 'T' section of PVC pipe (second photo).
This 'T' section has a splash shield in it that prevents water coming from the left arm to splash up and out of the top opening. When reinstalling, make sure it is installed correctly.

At this time, I took the 'T' section outside and used our garden hose to flush it out and clean it. This step is not necessary, but I figured that I might as well do it while I can.

4. I now had access to the drain. The drain is attached to the bottom of the sink by a large nut. Between the nut and sink is a washer. Unscrew the large nut and place the nut and washer off to the side.

5. The drain is now free, all that has to be done is to lift it out of the sink. The plumber's putty may offer a little resistance, so if you are having trouble, try twisting the drain a little to break the putty's hold.

I have seen some people use silicone adhesive caulk instead of plumber's putty.
The silicone caulk will ensure the drain is water proof and secure, but once it adheres, you will not be able to remove the drain. This would be especially bad if your sink is like ours and is made out of solid surface material because it can lead to a cracked sink.

6. Remove all traces of old plumber's putty from both the sink and the drain. The old putty may be reused if it has not hardened.

7. Apply a bead of plumber's putty around the collar of the drain. There should be enough putty to make a good seal. When you install the drain, some putty should be squeezed out, if not, there is not enough putty.

8. Reinstall the large washer and the drain nut. Tighten. I then used a rag to clean all traces of putty in the sink. A good way to judge whether you have enough putty and the drain is tight enough is by looking at how flush the collar of the drain is to the bottom of the sink. If the collar sticks out past the bottom of the sink, then there is either too much putty or the drain has not been tightened down enough.

9. Wrap the threads of the sink drain and all the threaded portions of the PVC pipe with new Teflon tape (clean the old tape out first).

10. Reinstall the 'T' section of pipe and tighten all the fittings. That is it!

Under the Hood - V6 Rear Wheel Drive 1

2009-05-05T01:00:00.000-04:00

In my Under the Hood series, I plan to photographically document the engine compartments from as many different vehicle types as possible.* I will then label the most common maintenance items and briefly explain the purpose of each component and system. My overall goal is to help those who do not know their way around an automobile's engine bay and may be intimidated by it.

* Engine bays are different between models of cars, however, most cars in the same class are similar enough that if you know your way around one you will be able to find your way around another.

This episode features a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L V6 OHV Cologne engine. Click on the photo for a higher resolution view.

Engine Oil Cap
Engine Oil Dipstick
Transmission Dipstick
Radiator
Radiator Cap
Upper Radiator Hose
Engine Coolant Reservoir
Windshield Washer Reservoir
Fuse/Relay Box
Battery
Air Filter Housing
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Brake Booster
Power Steering Reservoir
Spark Plug Coil
Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)
Alternator
AC Compressor
Serpentine Belt

In this photo, you can see the basic maintenance items common to most cars. Below is a brief description of each component outlined in this episode and, if applicable, any quick and easy maintenance checks you can perform on the component.

Engine Oil Cap - Add oil here

Engine Oil Dipstick - Use to periodically check the oil level in your engine. To check, remove the dipstick, clean it with a rag, and fully reinsert it. Remove the dipstick again and note the level of oil. If the oil is in the cross hatched area it is ok. If it is below, slowly add oil through the Engine Oil Cap until the oil level is within the cross hatched area.

Transmission Dipstick - To accurately check the level of the transmission fluid, you transmission should be at normal operating temperature. With the engine running, apply the brakes and move the gear shifter through the whole ranger of gears (i.e. P-R-N-D-2-1), waiting about 2 seconds at each gear. Move the gear shifter back to Park and check the dipstick while the engine is still idling.

Radiator - The radiator works to keep the engine from overheating. You can visually check the bottom for leaking coolant.

Radiator Cap - If the car has been used recently be very careful removing the radiator cap because the system will still be pressurized and hot steam could scald you. When in doubt, listen for a hissing sound when you turn the cap. If you hear a hissing sound, do not remove the cap. Otherwise, remove the cap and look at the coolant inside the radiator. If it is discolored (there are lots of different colors of coolant, so you will have to know the original color in order to know if the coolant's color is different) you may need to flush the cooling system. Also, make sure the radiator is full of coolant.

Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses - Visually check the hose for any cracks, holes, deterioration or any other signs of leakage.

Engine Coolant Reservoir - Check the level of coolant and make sure it is not above the "COLD MAX" line on the exterior of the reservoir.

Windshield Washer Reservoir - Check the level of the fluid against the line on the exterior of the reservoir or keep at least half full.

Fuse/Relay Boxes - To check a fuse, remove it and look through its side. If the wire connects the two prongs, it is good. If the wire is broken, the fuse is bad and should be replaced with a fuse with the same number.

Battery - Most auto parts stores can test your battery for free. Make sure the battery posts and wire terminals are clean and do not have any built-up corrosion. Corrosion will look like white, clumpy powder. To clean the posts and terminals, remove the negative terminal first, then the positive. You can use a wire brush, scrub pad, commercial battery post cleaner, or a 3:1 baking soda/water paste to scrub the battery posts and wire terminals clean. If you used any method that involved liquid or paste cleaners, allow everything to thoroughly dry before reinstalling the terminals onto the posts. Always reinstall the positive wire first, then the negative. You can smear a little petroleum jelly over the posts to help prevent future corrosion. (Note: after uninstalling the battery, the car may run slightly more rough than before because the car's computer's memory will have been reset and it will take a few miles for it to relearn its previous settings).

Air Filter Housing - The air filter is located in here. To access the air filter you will have to remove some clamps or screws (depending on the car). Pull the air filter out and visually inspect it.

Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) location - Inside the air intake tube (after the air filter) is the MAF. There is no regular check you can do, but if you ever need to clean the MAF due to a rough running engine, you can spray electronic cleaner spray over the wire.

Brake Fluid Reservoir - Visually check to make sure the fluid is at the proper level.

Power Steering Reservoir - Visually check to make sure the fluid is at the proper level. Some systems use a dipstick method of checking the fluid level.

Spark Plug Coil - Visually inspect for any cracks. You can also check the spark plug wires by looking for any small electrical arcs while the engine is running. You will need to do this in a dark (but well ventilated) garage or at night.

IAC Valve - If your engine in running erratically while idling, the problem may be a faulty or stuck IAC valve. To check, unplug the electrical wiring to the valve while the engine is running. If the engine's RPMs drop, the valve is working. If the engine shows no change then the IAC valve must be replaced.

Alternator - Most auto parts stores can check your alternator for free. The alternator basically converts power generated by the engine to charge the battery and run the accessories, like lights and radio. When the engine is not running, the lights and radio run off the battery.

AC Compressor - If the AC compressor constantly starts and stops but you are not getting any cold air, have the AC system checked for leaks or low refrigerant.

Serpentine Belt - Some vehicles will have one serpentine belt, some have two belts - one that drives the Air Conditioning Compressor and one that drives the Alternator, Water Pump, and Power Steering. Visually check the belts for frays, cracks or missing chunks.

Tool Review: Dewalt DW304PK Reciprocating Saw

2009-05-04T01:00:00.000-04:00

Description

Reciprocating saws, sometimes called sawzalls (a trademark of the Milwaulkee brand), saws alls, recipro saws and sabre saws, are great tools for construction and demolition.

Since the saw can change blades, reciprocating saws can be outfitted to cut through just about any material, including wood and steel. This makes them very handy in demolition work where wood planks with nails or screw must be quickly cut.

So How Good is the DeWALT DW304PK Reciprocating Saw ?

Priced right around $100, the DW304PK is DeWalt's entry level saw. It comes with a nice carrying case and an instruction manual. I have to admit that I toss most tool cases into storage because I find them to be, for the most part, junk, but I really do like this case. It is large enough inside to fit the saw with a long blade installed and the cord without trying to figure out how they managed to get it all to fit from the factory.

The DeWalt DW304PK is, for the most part, a fairly basic saw, but it does have some nice features:

10 Amp motor
4-position blade clamp
Tool less blade change
Variable speed trigger
7 lb. weight

Motor
The DeWalt's 10 Amp motor is powerful enough to cut through everything I have used it on so far. There have only been two times the saw has struggled, once when I was using the saw to quickly "disassemble" an old couch that I did not want to carry down a dangerous flight of stairs and once while cutting through a thick trunk of a shrub. The reason the saw struggled on the couch was because some of the fabric got caught in the blade clamp and started to clog the saw. The saw struggled on the trunk because the trunk was just too thick for the blade. Neither of those examples were the fault of the saw, but were my fault in the use of the saw.

Blades
Two of the features I really like about this saw regard how the saw uses blades. The first is its keyless blade clamp. Changing the blade is extremely easy and fast. The second blade feature is the 4-position blade clamp. This clamp allows you to install a blade with the serrations (cutting edge) down, up, to the left, or to the right. I have made use of this feature many times; often when working with the reciprocating saw, I would find one position in which I had the most control of the saw, but that position would not always be optimum for cutting if it were not for this clever feature. Now, I can hold the saw in the most comfortable position without sacrificing cutting efficiency.

Ergonomics and Saw Control
Being the entry level, "lite" saw offering, the DeWalt DW304PK weighs in at a respectable 7 lbs. I would not call it light or heavy, but manageable. It is light enough to be used over the head for short periods of time without leading to arm fatigue but heavy enough to let you know it is well built and not flimsy.

The variable speed trigger is useful, but I usually end up squeezing the trigger all the way down as I am using the saw. It takes a little practice to get good at accurately controlling the speed, but I have not found it to detract from the overall usefulness of the saw.

What I Like

Rugged and durable build quality
Keyless / Tool less blade change
4-position blade clamp

What I Dislike

Probably not powerful enough for professional use

Summary
I think this is the perfect saw for any homeowner or DIYer who needs a reciprocating saw for those occasional demolition or construction tasks. It is moderately inexpensive, has a sturdy build quality, and is ver simple and straight forward to use.

This Model's Rating
This is a good saw for any non professional. Professionals who use a reciprocating saw all day will obviously want a bigger and better saw, but for the DIYers out there, this is the perfect reciprocating saw.

This Power Tool's Rating
When I had a small portion of a wall to remove when remodeling our kitchen, I tried using a variety of tools and methods to quickly and accurately complete the job. I soon threw in the towel and went to our local hardware store where I found this saw. Using a reciprocating saw made the demolition so easy I fininshed the job in less than half the time it would have taken me otherwise. I soon found other uses for the saw around the house, making it a money-wise decision to purchase it.

How To Change a Thermostat on a V6 Ford Ranger

2009-05-03T01:00:00.000-04:00

A car's thermostat controls the flow of coolant to keep the engine in its prime operating temperature. Thermostats can become stuck in either the open or closed position. In either case, it will need to be replaced.

I noticed the temperature gauge needle never got off the very bottom mark unless I drove on the interstate for over 20 minutes. Even then, it barely got above the cold mark. I knew either the thermostat or the temperature sending unit were bad. Since I was flushing my cooling system, I decided to go ahead and replace the thermostat to see if it would fix my problem. Thermostats are inexpensive (around $5), so well worth the price to "throw parts" at a problem to see if the problem can be fixed.

Troubleshooting the Thermostat
A working thermostat will let the engine get into its normal operating temperature within a few minutes of running and keep it there. You will also be able to get heat from the HVAC controls relatively quickly. If your car has a problem with any of these, the thermostat may need to be changed.

The thermostat may be stuck open if...

The engine takes a long time to heat up - indicated by either the temperature gauge not wanting to leave the "C" or "Cold" mark. (Check to make sure the Temperature Sending Unit is working properly, as this may cause an incorrect temperature gauge reading).
It takes a long time to get heat from the HVAC.
The upper radiator hose never gets hot, even after the vehicle has been driven for several miles.

The thermostat may be stuck closed if...

The engine overheats after a consistant amount of time driving, shortly after starting the engine and no leakage can be found from the radiator, hoses, head gasket, or heater core.

Tools and Materials

10mm socket (1/4" drive)
1/4" ratchet (there is not enough clearance for a 3/8" ratchet)
Small 1/4" extension
10mm combination box-end and open-end wrench
New thermostat with gasket
50/50 mix of coolant and water to top off the radiator if any spills out during operation

Changing the Thermostat
A good time to change the thermostat is when the cooling system is empty, like during a coolant system flush. It is possible to change the thermostat with a full cooling system but some coolant will leak out of the disconnected hoses.

Follow these photos and captions for the thermostat changing instructions on a 1996 4.0L Ford Ranger:

Locate the thermostat housing by following the upper radiator hose to where it connects with the engine block.

Here you can see the thermostat housing tucked away.

You will have an easier time accessing the thermostat by removing the throttle cable splash shield and disconnecting the electrical connector that goes into the air intake. You can also completely remove the air intake hose, but I opted not to.

You will need to remove these two 10mm bolts.

And there is one more underneath.

Here is the thermostat (red arrow). The blue arrow shows the Temperature Sending Unit which controls the temperature gauge. The TSU will always have one wire coming out of it. The green arrow shows the Temperature Sensor, this sensor tells the car's computer how hot the coolant is. This sensor will always have two or three wires coming out of it.

Remove any old gasket material from the hose side and engine side of the thermostat housing.

Here is the new thermostat with rubber gasket installed. Note how it is installed. The spring side should go towards the engine.

To finish: follow the steps in reverse.

Before it took a lot of driving to even move the temperature gauge needle on my truck, now the truck warms up quickly and stays in the normal temperature range like it should. This should help keep the engine running well, improve gas mileage, and keep emissions low.

How To Flush Your Car's Cooling System

2009-05-02T01:00:00.002-04:00

Flushing the coolant in your vehicle's cooling system is a great step in maintaining a healthy engine. A failure in the cooling system can easily result in an engine damaged beyond repair and a wallet much, much lighter. Luckily, servicing a car's cooling system is easily within the grasp of the backyard mechanic. Spring and Autumn or good times to check your cooling system.

Take a moment to familiarize yourself with how your car's cooling system works. Below is a diagram illustrating a typical cooling system with the major parts of the system highlighted and explained.
The heart of any cooling system is the radiator. This large, flat tank of coolant is positioned at the front of your vehicle, just behind the grill. The radiator has many small channels that coolant flows through to dissipate heat. Directly behind the radiator will be one or two fans which help the radiator cool the antifreeze.*
On most vehicles, there will be a radiator cap on top of the radiator, on some, the cap is on the coolant recovery reservoir.
Cold coolant is pulled by the water pump, through the lower radiator hose, and into the engine. The coolant circulates throughout the engine, keeping it from overheating.
When the engine has reached normal operating temperatures, the thermostat opens, allowing the hot coolant to flow from the engine back to the radiator where it is cooled again.
When you turn the heat on inside your car, coolant flows from the engine into the heater core. The heater core is sort of like a miniature radiator located inside the dashboard that uses the heat from the coolant to warm the air in the car's cabin.

*The term coolant and antifreeze are interchangeable. This fluid has four main tasks: cool the engine, keep from freezing, keep from boiling, and keep the system from corroding.

What Type of Coolant/Antifreeze Should I Use?
Today's coolant market is confusing. In days past all coolant was the green ethylene glycol variety, but not anymore. Now it seems that every car manufacturer has at least one color of coolant. There are extended life coolants that now claim to go up to 150,000 miles before they need to be flushed and there are several "All Makes, All Models" type of coolant on store shelves. Which to use? Here is a pdf that has some good, technical information. If you want my simple answer, I would recommend using whatever coolant came with your vehicle. If you cannot find that or do not know, you can always use the tried and true green ethylene glycol. The only major drawback with the green stuff is its short 2 year coolant change interval, but even then, this short flush interval forces you to keep on top of your cooling system's maintenance, so I am not even sure that it is a drawback.

Common Problems With the Cooling System
Normally, your car's cooling system will work flawlessly for many years, but when a problem does occur, it is usually one of these:

Leaking coolant (external) - a cracked radiator or old hose can cause coolant to leak. Replace any worn hoses or repair/replace the radiator.
Leaking coolant (internal) - if your coolant level is dropping but you do not see any signs of external leakage, check the condition of your oil. If the oil is milky, then you have a blown head gasket.
Leaking coolant (general) - if the coolant is not leaking out externally or internally, have your radiator cap pressure tested. A bad radiator cap may let steam escape, thus lowering the level of coolant.
Coolant does not get cold - A broken fan clutch (if your fan is belt driven) or an electrical problem (if your fan is electrically driven) can disable the fan.
Engine overheats - There can be many causes of this. First, check the coolant level in the radiator. Next, check for any liquid leaking out of the weep hole in the water pump; leakage here indicates a bad water pump. If the water pump and coolant levels are good, check the thermostat. A thermostat that is stuck closed will not allow coolant to circulate. When the engine is warm, feel the upper radiator hose. If it is hot, then the thermostat is not stuck closed.
Engine takes a long time to get to operating temperature - The thermostat is stuck open, replace the thermostat.
There is no heat coming out of the vents - A thermostat that is stuck open will increase the time it takes to get hot air out of the vents. If you do not get any hot air, the heater core may be plugged or bad.
Coolant is leaking into the front passenger leg area - The heater core is clogged.

Flushing the Coolant on a 1996 Ford Ranger

Here is the method I used on my Ranger to service the cooling system.
There are several methods available.

There are four main steps in servicing the cooling system:

Flush the radiator
Flush the heater core
Flush the coolant recovery reservoir
Fill the system

Tools and Materials
You do not need much to flush your cooling system.

The proper amount of coolant and water (check your owner's manual to find the cooling system's capacity)
Pliers or screw driver to remove hose clamps
Hose to direct draining coolant into proper container
Large bucket or container to drain coolant into
Garden hose attached to a water supply to flush the system
Funnel to fill the radiator
Chemical Cooling System Flush (optional) if your cooling system is very corroded or dirty, you may want to use a cleaner.

Flushing the Radiator

Start by removing the radiator cap.
Locate the radiator drain (on side of radiator, passenger side)
Attach a 3/8" inside diameter hose onto the drain nipple and route the hose into a large (4-5 gallon minimum) container.
Unscrew the draincock enough to let coolant drain from the radiator. You do not have to remove it. (If your car's radiator does not have a drain, you can disconnect the lower radiator hose to drain the radiator).
When coolant stops draining, use a garden hose at the radiator cap to flush the radiator. When the fluid coming out is clear, the radiator has been flushed. Let all the water drain, then tighten the draincock. Compare the color of your coolant to new coolant. If the old coolant looks good, then proceed to the next section. If the old coolant is rusty, or if chunks of rust and corrosion came out with the flush, you may consider using a chemical flushing agent to clean your radiator. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. On my truck, the old coolant looks really good, so I did not use any chemical cleaners.

Flushing the Heater Core

Locate the heater core inlet and outlet hoses. These two hoses will be located at the passenger side firewall. Follow the hoses to determine which is the inlet and which is the outlet. The inlet hose will come from the engine or thermostat; the outlet will come from the water pump.
Detach both hoses. Route the outlet hose so that it will empty into the drain container (I rigged up a drain pipe and hose).
With the garden hose, spray water into the inlet hose until the fluid draining from the outlet hose is clear. Alternate between a steady stream and short bursts to help dislodge any build-up inside the heater core.
Back flush the heater core by switching which hose drains and which you spray water into.
This step is optional, but you can repeat step #3 one more time.
Reattach the hoses, making sure they are properly routed (you do not want to get the inlet/outlet switched).

Flushing the Coolant Reservoir

Locate the end of the reservoir hose attached to the radiator pressure cap. Remove the hose from the cap and unclip it from the top of the radiator.
Route the hose so that the fluid drains into the drain container.
Open the coolant recovery reservoir cap. If the inside is fairly clean a simple garden hose flush is all that is needed. If there is a lot of scale and corrosion build-up, you may need to use a household cleaner to help get the tank clean. The reservoir on my truck had a bit of sediment in it, but not much.

Before proceeding to refilling the system with fresh coolant, make sure all hoses and drains are secure. Also, if your car is older, now may be a good time to do a little preventative maintenance and replace the thermostat.

Filling the System

Slowly add a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water (distilled is preferrable) to the radiator. Use a large funnel. When done, leave the funnel in place.
When the radiator will take no more coolant, fill the reservoir to the "COLD FILL" line.
Set the heat controls all the way up.
Start the engine and let it run for 10 minutes AFTER it gets to operating temperature.
Shut the engine off and let it cool down. Add more coolant as necessary and reinstall the radiator cap.

There you go! I would keep an eye on the coolant level periodically for the next couple of days. If you think there may still be air in the system, you can purge it out by running the engine with the cap off the radiator.

Disposing of Used Coolant
"How do I properly dispose of used auto coolant?" This is a common question. The answer is to find out what your local laws are. Some recycling or hazardous materials centers will accept used coolant as will some auto parts stores. In some places, you can drain used coolant into the sewer as long as that sewer goes directly to a sanitation plant. In any case, always follow these guidelines:

NEVER empty into a storm sewer or drain that does not end at a sanitation plant (septic systems are unacceptable!).
NEVER pour into the ground.
NEVER leave antifreeze uncovered - children or animals can be attracted to its sweet scent and taste and drink it, this is VERY dangerous and can be fatal!
ALWAYS find out what the local laws are for properly disposing used coolant.

Other Coolant Flush Methods
I mentioned some other methods of flushing the coolant system. One simple way is to do a radiator drain and refill, then drive the car for the day, then repeat a few more times. However, using this method will not get the heater core or coolant reservoir properly flushed.

Another method is to purchase a flushing kit. These kits include a 'T' adapter that you install by cutting one of the hoses going to the heater core. Then you attach a garden hose and run the engine while the water purges all the old coolant out of the radiator. Finally, you add straight (not pre-diluted) coolant to the radiator until the proper mix is attained. This process does a good job of flushing, but you end up with tap water in your cooling system. I would personally not want all the hard minerals found in most tap water clogging up my radiator, so use distilled water when possible.

Remodeling the Kitchen - Part 5

2009-05-01T01:00:00.001-04:00

Installing Ceramic Tile

Size of the tile
Type of tile
Color of tile
Tile layout plan

*Remember to purchase floor tiles; floor tiles are thicker and provide better traction than wall tile.

.
The size of the tile depends on the size of the room it will be installed in. If the tiles are too small for the room the percentage of grout lines to tiled floor could become too high and create a distracting pattern. On the other hand, tiles that are too large for the room can also look out of place. If you are not sure what size tiles you want there are a few things you can do that will aid your decision:

Ask an employee at a tile shop or home improvement center for advice
Look at other tiled rooms or rooms with vinyl floors with tile patterns
The most common tile size for most medium sized rooms will be about 12"
Smaller rooms, such as bathrooms, usually have 6" - 12" tiles
Large rooms with lots of open space can have 17" or larger tiles

While you are deciding on what size tile you want you should also plan the tile layout. The layout options are only limited by your creativity. The most common and the simplest layout is the grid design. You can also take the grid layout and rotate it 45 degrees so that your tiles run diagonally across the floor. Yet another popular layout is offsetting the tiles much like the layout of a brick wall. In addition to designs using one type of tile, you can incorporate boarder tiles, different colored tiles, or tiles set 45 degrees from the surrounding tiles.

We decided to use the simple grid pattern because it matched the simple country look we wanted for our new kitchen.

After finding the perfect tile at the perfect price at a home improvement store, we put the 1/2+ ton of tile, mortar, and grout in the back of our truck and drove home, eager to finally have a real floor in the kitchen.

The Layout
You want the tile to be centered and run square to the room. It will be noticeable if it is off center or is not square to the room.

1. Measure along one of the walls and find the center point. Mark this point, then do the same with the opposite wall. When you have the two points marked, snap a chalk line between the points, essentially dividing the room in half. Do the same with the other two walls. You should now have two chalk lines running perpendicular to each other and intersecting in the center of the room.
2. Dry lay a row of tiles along each chalk reference line. Keep in mind to leave a gap between the tiles the same distance you want your grout line thickness to be. We used 1/8" plastic tile spacers (sold at hardware stores) to ensure an even gap.
3. Adjust the reference lines as needed to best center the tiles in the room.
Material List

Tile - you should have 10% more than you need (i.e. if you are tiling a 300 sq. ft. area, you should have 330 sq. ft. of tile on hand).
Thinset mortar - Use gray if the grout will be dark or white if your grout will be light.
Grout - There are many color options.
Grout Sealer
Silicon Caulk
Wooden Board

Tool List

Level - We used a 4' level.
Goggles - When cutting tile
Respirator - When cutting tile
Knee Pads - You will definitely want these!
Tile Cutter - For making straight cuts along the entire length of a tile.
Wet Tile Saw or Angle Grinder with Diamond Cut-Off Wheel - For making non-straight cuts.
Clamps - For holding tile while cutting it.
Rubber Mallet
Tile Spacers
Sponges
Clean Rags
Rubber Grout Float
Notched Trowel - For spreading thinset mortar
Chalk Line - For making your reference marks.
Tape Measure
Large Bucket or Pan - to mix mortar and grout in.
Caulk Gun - For caulking the perimeter of the room after the tile is laid.
Mortar and Grout Mixer

Installing the Tile
The chances are astronomically high that at some point you will have to cut a tile to fit a space. I will discuss that later in this post, but for now I will guide you through the process we used to lay our tile floor.

1. First you need to get your thinset mortar prepared. Mix the mortar in a large pan or bucket with water until it is the consistency of thick, creamy peanut butter.
2. We started at the center (where our new chalk reference lines were) and worked in one quadrant of the room at a time. Spread some mortar onto the floor with the notched end of your trowel. There should barely be any mortar in the valleys created by the notched trowel. You should spread it so that the notches create even rows.
3. Firmly place the first tile down. Start laying the tile out, using the spacers in between them, being careful to keep the tiles lined up with each other. Clean any mortar that oozes out in between the tiles.
4. Once you get several tiles laid in an area, use a board and rubber mallet to set the tile. Place the board across several tile and hit it with the mallet. Do not strike too hard or else you may end up cracking a tile, you only need enough pressure to ensure the tile is firmly set in the mortar.

5. Once all the full sized tiles have been installed, it is time to start cutting tiles to finish the job.

*We laid all the full size tiles in one quadrant of the room and then cut the odd sized ones to finish the quadrant before moving on. I ended up being the tile cutter and my wife was the tile layer. Having these roles helped the work flow smoothly and accurately.

*We still had a problem with one area of the floor that had a high ridge. When we installed the backerboard we tried to smooth this high spot out as much as possible by using additional mortar. We had to do the same thing with the tile. It actually worked very well and that spot which was once noticeably higher than the surrounding floor is all but a foregone memory.

Cutting the Tile
There are two basic types of cuts, full length straight cuts and irregular cuts. The fastest and easiest way to make the full length straight cuts is to use a tile cutter. This tool scores the tile and then snaps it along the score line. After looking at the outrageous prices to buy a wet tile saw and the moderately high price to rent one, I decided to try a different method for cutting the irregular shaped tiles. I purchased an inexpensive ($14) diamond cut-off wheel that fit my 4 1/2" angle grinder. This worked perfectly and for a tiny fraction of the cost of a wet saw!

Most of your cuts will probably be straight cuts to get a thin piece of tile to fit between the wall and the last full tile. Luckily, these are very easy cuts to measure for:

Line up and place a full size tile on top of the last full tile in the row.
Place a tile vertically against the wall.
Place another full tile on top of the tile from step 1, but move this tile over so one of its edges is flush against the the vertical tile.
Using this tile as a guide, draw a line on the tile from step 1. This is your cut line.
Use the tile cutter to score the tile along the line and then snap it. The piece you cut will fit perfectly!
Use a file (you can find specialty ceramic tile files at most hardware stores) to remove the sharp edges from the cut.

At first, I had a difficult time making irregular cuts in the tiles. I tried using tile nippers and some other tools without any success. Finally I got an idea; I went and found a diamond cutting wheel for 4 1/2" angle grinders. I purchased the cheapest one with the thought of testing it; I figured if it did not work well I would only be out $14. To my pleasant surprise it worked great!

Using a tape measure and pencil, measure and mark the part of the tile that needs to be cut.
Clamp the tile to a work surface. I placed two small pieces of plywood across two saw horses. Having two pieces of plywood allowed me to use a clamp between the plywood pieces to hold the rear of the tile down.
If the cut lines are straight, cut along one line with the grinder, then rotate the tile and cut along the other line(s).
If you need to cut a semicircle shape out of a tile, you can make cut multiple straight cuts to remove the bulk of the semicircle. Then use the tip of the diamond wheel to form the circle's edge.

Make sure you are outside and wearing old work clothes and eye, ear, and respiratory protection. Since this is not a wet saw, there will be a LOT of dust and most of it seems to end up all over you!

The Tile is Installed, Now What?
Your back and knees are probably sore from all the hard work, so take a 24 hour break, you have earned it! Soak your knees and get a back massage.
Let the tile set overnight (at least 8 hours, we waited longer) so the mortar has enough time to fully set. Avoid walking on the tile for this time.
The next step is grouting the joints.

The Next Step: Grouting the Joints (See, I told you so)
Break time is over! We were exhausted after installing the ceramic tile in our kitchen and breakfast nook. We started early the morning of July 4th (it is nice having the day off work) and worked till midnight. We then had to work most of Saturday as well just to finish laying the tile. The last thing we felt like doing was getting back on our knees to do the grout, but it is the last major step of installing tile.

To ensure an even color, mix all the grout together at once. It should be the same thickness (like peanut butter) as the thinset mortar mixed earlier.
Apply the grout by spreading it over the tiles with the rubber grout float held at a 45 degree angle. The grout should flow into the joints and fill them and the rubber grout float should keep the surface of the tile relatively clean. Do not grout the outside perimeter of the room where the floor and walls meet.
Run the rubber grout float over the floor again to clear any grout that is not in a joint. Make sure all the joints are full of grout.
Use an old tooth brush or other small brush to shape the grout.
Wait 20 minutes, then wipe the tiles off with a damp sponge. Have a bucket of water handy to keep the sponge moist.
Let the grout cure for a week to ten days. During this time it is safe to walk on the floor but try to do as little as possible. The grout will be especially susceptible to staining at this point.
After the grout has cured, apply grout sealer. There are several methods of application, we chose to purchase an inexpensive applicator which is nothing more than a small bottle with a little wheel that controls the flow of sealant. Read the instructions on the sealer for directions.
Apply silicone caulk around the outside perimeter of the room. I found it helpful to use painter's tape to tape off the floor and wall to make cleaning excess caulk an easy task.
Once the grout sealer and silicone caulk have dried you can mop the floor with specialty tile cleaner to remove any trace of grout or dust from the installation.

*******

At last, we finally had a real floor to walk on! It was worth the time and effort to tile these rooms ourselves. Our total cost for laying almost 300 sq. ft. of porcelain ceramic tile was right around $600. That included all the materials, supplies, and tools. I only lost two tiles during the whole install, so we have two or three full boxes of tiles in a closet that we can keep in case we ever need to repair a section of the floor.

And of course, a couple of photos of the finished floor:

But wait! Our kitchen remodel is not yet done! Things are about to get very interesting...

Under the Hood - V6 Front Wheel Drive 1

2009-04-30T01:00:00.000-04:00

* Engine bays are different between models of cars, however, most cars in the same class are similar enough that if you know your way around one you will be able to find your way around another.

This episode features two cars that share the same heritage and similar engines, a 2000 Ford Taurus and a 2007 Ford 500. Click on each photo for a higher resolution view.

Pictured above is the engine bay of a 2000 Ford Taurus with the 3.0L V6 engine.

Engine Oil Cap
Engine Oil Dipstick
Upper Radiator Hose
Engine Coolant Reservoir and Cooling System Cap
Windshield Washer Reservoir
Fuse/Relay Box
Battery
Air Filter Housing
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) location
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Power Steering Reservoir
Spark Plugs (Front 3, Back 3 are under the Intake Manifold)
Spark Plug Coil Pack
Alternator
Idle Air Control (IAC) Solenoid

Pictured above is the engine bay of a 2007 Ford Five Hundred with the 3.0L V6 engine.

Engine Oil Cap
Engine Oil Dipstick
Engine Coolant Reservoir
Engine Coolant/Radiator Cap
Windshield Washer Reservoir
Fuse/Relay Box
Battery
Air Filter Housing
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
Coil-on-Spark Plugs (back three are underneath #14)
Intake Manifold
Upper Radiator Hose

In these two photos, you can see the basic maintenance items common to most cars. I will write a brief description of each component outlined in this episode and, if applicable, any quick and easy maintenance checks you can perform on the component.

Engine Oil Cap - Add oil here

Engine Oil Dipstick - Use to periodically check the oil level in your engine. To check, remove the dipstick, clean it with a rag, and fully reinsert it. Remove the dipstick again and note the level of oil. If the oil is in the cross hatched area it is ok. If it is below, slowly add oil through the Engine Oil Cap until the oil level is within the cross hatched area.

Radiator - The radiator works to keep the engine from overheating. You can visually check the bottom for leaking coolant.

Radiator Cap - If the car has been used recently be very careful removing the radiator cap because the system will still be pressurized and hot steam could scald you. When in doubt, listen for a hissing sound when you turn the cap. If you hear a hissing sound, do not remove the cap. Otherwise, remove the cap and look at the coolant inside the radiator. If it is discolored (there are lots of different colors of coolant, so you will have to know the original color in order to know if the coolant's color is different) you may need to flush the cooling system. Also, make sure the radiator is full of coolant.

Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses - Visually check the hose for any cracks, holes, deterioration or any other signs of leakage.

Engine Coolant Reservoir - Check the level of coolant and make sure it is not above the "COLD MAX" line on the exterior of the reservoir.

Windshield Washer Reservoir - Check the level of the fluid against the line on the exterior of the reservoir or keep at least half full.

Fuse/Relay Boxes - To check a fuse, remove it and look through its side. If the wire connects the two prongs, it is good. If the wire is broken, the fuse is bad and should be replaced with a fuse with the same number.

Battery - Most auto parts stores can test your battery for free. Make sure the battery posts and wire terminals are clean and do not have any built-up corrosion. Corrosion will look like white, clumpy powder. To clean the posts and terminals, remove the negative terminal first, then the positive. You can use a wire brush, scrub pad, commercial battery post cleaner, or a 3:1 baking soda/water paste to scrub the battery posts and wire terminals clean. If you used any method that involved liquid or paste cleaners, allow everything to thoroughly dry before reinstalling the terminals onto the posts. Always reinstall the positive wire first, then the negative. You can smear a little petroleum jelly over the posts to help prevent future corrosion. (Note: after uninstalling the battery, the car may run slightly more rough than before because the car's computer's memory will have been reset and it will take a few miles for it to relearn its previous settings).

Air Filter Housing - The air filter is located in here. To access the air filter you will have to remove some clamps or screws (depending on the car). Pull the air filter out and visually inspect it.

Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) location - Inside the air intake tube (after the air filter) is the MAF. There is no regular check you can do, but if you ever need to clean the MAF due to a rough running engine, you can spray electronic cleaner spray over the wire.

Brake Fluid Reservoir - Visually check to make sure the fluid is at the proper level.

Power Steering Reservoir - Visually check to make sure the fluid is at the proper level. Some systems use a dipstick method of checking the fluid level.

Spark Plugs - Spark plugs do not need to be checked very often, usually about 30,000 - 60,000 miles.

PCV Valve - Remove the valve and shake it. If it rattles then it is good, otherwise replace.

Alternator - Most auto parts stores can check your alternator for free. The alternator basically converts power generated by the engine to charge the battery and run the accessories, like lights and radio. When the engine is not running, the lights and radio run off the battery.

Accessory Belt - Some vehicles will have one serpentine belt, some have two belts - one that drives the Air Conditioning Compressor and one that drives the Alternator, Water Pump, and Power Steering. Visually check the belts for frays, cracks or missing chunks.

IAC Valve - If your engine in running erratically while idling, the problem may be a faulty or stuck IAC valve. To check, unplug the electrical wiring to the valve while the engine is running. If the engine's RPMs drop, the valve is working. If the engine shows no change then the IAC valve must be replaced.

Intake Manifold - This is the path the air takes to get to the engine.

Tool Review: Chicago Electric 10" Compound Slide Miter Saw 90891

2009-04-29T01:00:00.000-04:00

Power miter saws make quick work out of cross cutting boards and, you guessed it, making miter cuts. In today's market you can find miter saws with many features that extend their capability far beyond simple miter cuts. The Chicago Electric 90891 is one such saw. It is a sliding compound miter saw, but what exactly does that mean?

Sliding miter saws have the blade assembly mounted on some form of sliding mechanism so that the blade can make broader cuts. In a way, this feature turns a miter saw into a miniature radial arm saw.

Compound miter saws let you adjust the bevel of the cut in addition to the miter angle.

So How Good is the Chicago Electric 10" Sliding Compound Miter Saw 90891 ?The Chicago Electric 10" Sliding Compound miter saw is priced right around where most non sliding, non compound miter saws from the major tool brands are. That can be expected since Chicago Electric is the name Harbor Freight puts on its power tools, and Harbor Freight generally imports the least expensive tools it can get from China. You will usually find people who either love the inexpensive prices at these stores or hate the generally poor quality of imported tools sold at Harbor Freight. But this is a review of the miter saw, not the store where it came from.

Brand new, this saw will cost $100-130. Used ones can be found at discounted prices; I found my near-new saw for a little more than half retail price. You definitely get a lot of saw for your buck, but what we need to determine is if the saw works well.

Ease of Use
Starting with the ergonomics and ease of use, this saw performs well. The vertical pistol grip handle of the saw is comfortable and I prefer this style of handle as opposed to a horizontally mounted handle. The "trigger" and the safety thumb trigger are spaced perfectly for my medium sized hands.

Changing the miter or bevel angle is easily accomplished by using the large plastic knobs. The included work clamp features the same type of plastic knob which makes it comfortable and easy to use.

The weight of the motor is not a real issue. The motor/blade unit smoothly pivot down, though the spring in the hinge area may be a bit stiff. I would prefer the spring to be a little softer so it would not take quite as much effort to lower the blade.

To use the slide feature of this saw you simply loosen a bolt (that has a comfortable plastic knob, like all the other adjuster bolts) and the whole saw's arm, hinge, and motor unit slides back and forth on two rails. It takes very little effort to slide the saw, which I like.When the saw is completely extended forward on its rails, the center of balance is a little too far forward for the saw's base to handle. If you are going to use the saw's sliding feature, you should bolt or clamp the saw down to a stable surface. What is nice about the base is that it includes pre-drilled holes to use to bolt it down.

The miter adjustment has positive stops at 0, 22 1/2, and 45 degrees. I really like this feature and wish all tools that have miter or bevel adjustments used accurate positive stops. Unfortunately, the bevel adjustment on this saw does not have positive stops, except at 0 and 45 degrees, which happen to be both the miter and bevel range of angles this saw is capable of cutting.

The included out-feed support rails are marginally useful, but the plastic stop is not. The amount of play in the stop is alarming, even when it is fully tightened down to the rail. That is not too much of a problem though since the out-feed rails are really too short to begin with. Like all miter saws, this can easily be remedied with the purchase or creation of a dedicated miter saw stand.

Operation
First of all, the 90891 has a strong enough motor to cut through any wood that will fit. No complaints there.

The blade leaves a clean cut almost all the way through the wood, but creates a lot of splinters and tear-out at the rear of the cut. I think most of this is caused by the large gap in the fence for the saw's clearance. Most of the tear-out can be eliminated with the use of a sacrificial auxiliary fence. I really would like to be able to completely eliminate all splintering, but I have not had any luck. Another factor may be the large opening in the lower blade insert. If this insert were narrower, the wood piece would have more support from underneath and would splinter less when cut.

The biggest criticism I have of this saw is the excessive play in the motor/blade unit's hinge. While lowering the blade to make a cut, I can wiggle the blade side-to-side about 1/16". Because the movement originates in the blade's pivot point, it can create a slightly angled cut.

What I Like

Compound cutting capability
Sliding feature
Easy to use
Inexpensive price

What I Dislike

Free play creating non-square cuts
Excessive tear-out and splintering
Blade guard needed to be adjusted in order to correctly work

Summary
For the most part this is a good saw. The movement in the blade really keeps the Chicago Electric 10" Compound Slide Miter Saw 90891 from being an excellent saw. It works very well for making quick cuts where dead-on accuracy are not important or if you are going to true those cuts on a table saw or other tool. The compound angle cuts are also very useful when working with crown molding.

This Model's Rating
This is a good saw with some flaws. If it were 25% more expensive I would suggest passing on it, but since it is so competitively priced and has so many features, I think this saw could be an asset to any hobbyist or remodeler.

This Power Tool's Rating
Miter saws are great tools for the DIY and home renovator. All too often you find yourself needing to make a quick cut or two and you do not have the time to use a table saw or hand saw. The added bonus offered by compound miter saws really shine when working with a lot of molding and trim work. Properly cutting the difficult angles when working with crown molding is easy with a compound miter saw.

Lettuce, the Lead Vacuum

2009-04-28T01:00:00.000-04:00

Lead is a soft metallic element that has long been popular in human history due to its easy malleability and low melting point. However, the relationship between humanity and lead is far from perfect. When inhaled or ingested, lead causes some serious health problems in humans. People most vulnerable are children, pregnant women, and women who are breastfeeding.

So What Does Lettuce Have to do With Lead?
Lead is a naturally occurring element that can be found all over. However, when concentrations of lead rise above natural levels, contamination has occurred. Lead contamination is mostly from lead paint used in old homes and automobile emissions. When chips from old paint, dust created by sanding or sawing wood painted with lead paint, or an excess amount of pollution is around, lead particles can settle in the soil. Have your soil tested if you think it may have a high concentration of lead.

This lead can then find its way into your body through consumption. If your garden soil has a lead problem, the highest risk of getting lead poisoning is through consuming the soil itself. Care must be taken with children (I have a nephew who absolutely loved to eat dirt as a baby, luckily he lives were the risk of lead or other human pollutants is extremely low) and if you are consuming food harvested from that soil, carefully wash it off.

Some of the lead can also be absorbed directly into the plants. Research suggests that if this is the case, the lead does not accumulate in the fruits of plants but in the leafy and rooty parts. If you want to grow a root or leafy vegetable, like carrots or lettuce, and think your soil may have a high concentration of lead, try growing lettuce. Grow a crop or two of lettuce, letting the plants get as large as they will, then dispose of the plants. If there was any lead in the soil that could have been absorbed by plants, those crops of lettuce would have sucked some of it out.

Another strategy you can use is to limit the absorption of lead by maintaining a soil pH above 6.5. Add lime to raise the pH.

If you think your soil is extremely contaminated by lead, dig it out and replace it with new top soil.

If you live near a major highway or other source of pollution, try surrounding your garden with hedges, shrubs, and trees. These plants will help filter out the lead particles in the air.

Replacing an AC Belt on an Altima

2009-04-27T01:00:00.000-04:00

I recently had the pleasure of helping my brother replace the air conditioning belt on his 1999 Nissan Altima. Most vehicles sold today either have one serpentine belt that weaves its way around all the pulleys, or two separate belts. In the case of the Altima, the main belt drives the power steering, alternator, and water pump. A secondary belt drives the air conditioning compressor.

As a side note, reading the belt diagram or following the route of the belt is an easy way to identify these automotive components.

This diagram is general representation of a two belt system. The red line represents the main belt and the blue line represents the secondary belt.

Luckily for us, the AC belt was the outer-most belt. This meant we did not have to take the main belt off in order to change the secondary belt.

Whenever changing a belt, you will always have to relieve the belt tension. Some systems use a spring loaded automatically adjusting self tensioner that must be rotated to relieve the tension. On the Altima, the belt tension is manually adjusted by a bolt. The belt tensioner pulley is attached to a pin that can slide up or down in a bracket. Here are the steps taken to replace the belt:

Remove the bolt and washer from the belt tensioner pulley (blue arrow)
Remove the adjusting bolt (red arrow)
Note how the pulley, pin, bracket, and adjusting bolt go together. Remove the pulley and inspect it. Lubricate or replace if needed.
Remove the old belt while taking note of how it is routed.
Reinstall the the pulley assembly but do not tighten the bolts yet. The pulley should freely slide up and down in the bracket.
Install the new belt. Move the pulley to its highest point in order to get the belt on. It may still be a tight fit.
Make sure the belt is properly seated in each of the pulleys - the crankcase (engine), AC compressor, and tensioner.
Tighten the pulley bolt (blue arrow), then tighten the adjusting bolt to 26 ft. lbs.
Check to make sure the belt is on tightly enough. To check, measure the amount the belt will deflect when you press against it at a point half way between two pulleys. The amount of deflection should be about 1/4" If it deflects more than that, tighten the adjusting bolt. If it does not deflect, then it is too tight and you need to loosen the adjusting bolt.

It is also a good idea to clean the the pulleys when you have the belt off. You should also check each pulley to make sure it spins freely (with the exception of the crankcase pulley). If any of the pulleys grind or resist spinning, try cleaning them or replacing them.

Extension Cord Reel

2009-04-26T01:00:00.000-04:00

Here is a quick tip if you hate dealing with a tangled extension cord any time you try to do yard work with an electric tool: make yourself a cord reel.

We had an old garden hose reel which was being unused so I fed the female end of a 100' long extension cord through the reel's axle and wound the rest of the cord up. When the time comes to use our electric weed eater, it is simply a matter of unwinding the amount of cord we need. And the best part? When the job is finished all you have to do is reel the extension cord back in. That's it! No more extension cord tangle.

Changing Your Car's Air Filter

2009-04-25T01:00:00.000-04:00

Changing your car's engine air filter is a quick and easy DIY maintenance job that will help your vehicle run better and more efficiently.

Check your owner's manual for the air filter change interval. A general rule of thumb is to change the filter every 30,000 miles. It is also a good idea to check the air filter every time you change the oil.

Follow the photos below to change the air filter
These photos were taken when I did the 30,000 mile maintenance tune up on our family sedan, a Ford Five Hundred. Most car's air filter housings will be similar to this, however, your vehicle's air filter housing may be slightly different. On the wife's old Malibu, the air filter housing was held closed by two screws instead of clasps like the Five Hundred. On my Ranger, the air filter housing is held together by a collar clamp (here is a video showing it on an Explorer which is the same procedure on my Ranger). In any case, it should not be difficult to open the air filter housing to change the air filter.

Remodeling the Kitchen - Part 4

2009-04-24T01:00:00.001-04:00

In Part 1 of our kitchen remodeling adventure we saw what we had to work with.
In Part 2, we came up with a plan and started demolition.
In Part 3 we installed the sub floor and removed part of a wall.
In this Part we will prepare the sub floor for the tile by laying cement backerboard.

Here we have the Kitchen and Breakfast nook ready for tile, right? Not so fast! First we need something underneath the tile that support the tile better than plywood - backer board.

We purchased Hardibacker back board from our local Lowes. It came in 3'x5' sheets (you can see them stacked on the floor in the photo above) and we purchased enough to cover 300 sq. ft. (about 8% more than we needed). You will need to lay some sort of cement backerboard before laying tile if the tile will be over a wood or plywood subfloor. If you are laying tile over concrete, make sure the concrete is in good shape without any cracks, humps, or bowls.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions when laying the backerboard. This is how we did it:

Mix some thin set mortar to peanut butter consistancy.
Using a trowel with 1/4" notches, spread the thinset mortar on the subfloor. The "valleys" of mortar created by the notches should have just a thin coat of mortar covering the subfloor. Using the notched trowel will ensure a flat and even application of mortar.
position the backerboard on the bed of mortar. Make sure there is an even bed of mortar underneath the board. Leave a 1/8" gap between boards - you can use tile spacers for this.
Screw the board down while the mortar is still wet. The Hardibacker brand board we purchased already had the screw pattern embossed on one side. If yours does not, put screws evenly spaced about 6"-8" apart. One full sheet of 3'x5' board takes 54 screws. A note on screws: there is a certain type of screw that the manufacturer may recommend due to its self counter-sinking head that screws just under the surface of the board and its extra water resistance. I found regular 2" coarse thread drywall screws, which can be purchased much cheaper in bulk, worked just fine as long as you made sure the head of the screw was flush with the backerboard.
Make sure the seams of the boards do not line up with each other, in other words, do not make a simple grid where four corners meet. Offset the pattern to where only two corners ever meet.
If there are any low spots in the floor or if the floor is slightly out of level, you can use a bit extra mortar to even the surface out. You want as flat of a surface as possible, especially if you are laying large tile!
Use special cement backboard tape (it looks like mesh or drywall tape) and tape and mortar the seams between boards.

I have some additional tips for laying the backerboard:
To cut the backerboard, use a carbide tipped knife to score the board. With the board well scored, snap it along the score. Traditional cement board can contain asbestos and even the newer types of backerboard that do not contain asbestos are still dangerous if you inhale dust particles. This is why you should cut the boards outside if possible and avoid using any cutting method that creates dust, like sawing. If you have to cut a lot of board, you can use a carbide blade in a circular saw but be sure to wear proper eye, ear, and respiratory protection! If you have never tiled before, working with the backerboard and mortar is good practice for the upcoming job!

Here is our kitchen and breakfast nook with the backerboard laid down and ready for the tile.

Our next installment of our kitchen renovation will be laying the tile. At this point of the project you should be excited about almost having the floor finished.!

Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger

2009-04-23T01:00:00.000-04:00

Extended cab Ford Rangers* up through the 1997 model year use a 2-piece drive shaft to connect the transmission to rear axle. In 1998, Ford replaced the 2-piece shaft with a single shaft of either steel or aluminum.

*1994 and newer Mazda B-Series trucks are mechanically identical to Ford Rangers, therefore driveshafts are interchangeable and the procedure would be the same.

Anatomy of a Drive Shaft
Before I get started, perhaps it would help if I did a quick explanation of the parts of the drive shaft.This diagram shows the drive shafts arranged so that the front is on the right and the rear of the shafts are on the left. The slip yoke slides into the transmission on two wheel drive vehicles. 4x4 vehicles have a flange that bolts onto the transfer case. The U-joints allow the drive shaft to flex and move as the vehicle's suspension travels up and down. The rear flange bolts onto the pinion flange which comes out of the rear differential (the large "pumpkin" shaped thing you see on the rear axles of trucks). The carrier bearing connects the front and aft shafts on 2-piece drive shafts.

Why and When Would You Want to Swap the Factory 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece?
In stock form, the 2-piece drive shaft functions without problem, however there is an extra u-joint and carrier bearing which adds to the drive line maintenance.

The 2-piece's main shortcoming is that it does not lend itself to non-stock suspension heights. Adding even a slight suspension lift kit or lowering the suspension will cause the drive shaft to vibrate at certain speeds which is not only incredibly annoying, it can also lead to premature u-joint and carrier bearing failure. This drawing I made illustrates the cause of the vibration:As you can see in the picture, in stock form, the line between the transmission and the rear differential (hidden behind the rear tire in the picture) is straight, as indicated by the red line. When the vehicle's suspension is raised, the transmission (large silver object in picture) and carrier bearing (light blue object that connects the fore shaft and rear shaft) are also raised because they are connected to the vehicle's frame. This takes the driveline out from the straight line and causes the u-joints on the drive shaft to operate at extreme angles. This in turn causes a vibration that usually occurs at very slow speeds and highway speeds.

There are two possible corrections for this problem.
1. Lower the carrier bearing. By dropping the carrier bearing, you can help restore the proper angle of the drive line. However, it is impossible to completely remove the vibration because the front and back of the 2-piece drive shaft will never be in phase with each other.
2. Replace the 2-piece drive shaft with a single piece. You have two options within this option: get a custom drive shaft made at high expense, or find a used drive shaft from a newer Ranger, usually at a very reasonable rate.

It may seem like #1 would be easier, but swapping out the entire drive shaft is no more work. I have done both with my truck and would highly recommend skipping the hassle you will face trying to fine tune the carrier bearing height and go straight for the drive shaft swap.

Which Drive Shaft Can I Use?
All 1998 and newer Rangers* with the extended cab (sometimes called supercab) come with a single piece driveshaft, however, you will need to get the right one. The easiest way is to match up the specifications of your truck with the donor truck. These criteria will need to be fulfilled in order to get a good match:

Same drive train: 4x4 or 4x2?
Same transmission type: Automatic transmission or manual?

If your truck is a 4x4, it will not matter what type of transmission the donor truck has because the driveshaft attaches to the transfer case.

Note: 1983-1989 Rangers use a smaller flange on the rear axle. You will need to swap the rear u-joint section with one from the front of the shaft.

Note: If you get a drive shaft from a 4x4 with the aluminum drive shaft, it will have a larger transfer case flange and you will either need to swap in a smaller u-joint unit from the rear of the shaft (the exact opposite of what you need to do in the 1983-1989 note) or swap the flange on the transfer case.

You may ask where you can find a suitable drive shaft for the swap. Your best bet is a junkyard. You may also have luck searching online used car part sites (e-junkyards), online auction sites, or classified sections of online Ranger forums (there are several good ones). I purchased mine off a fellow member of a Ranger forum at a decent price.

There are two types of drive shafts available: steel and aluminum. I first thought all the shafts from 4x4s were steel and all from 4x2s were aluminum, but that is not entirely true, some of the newer 4x4s have aluminum shafts and I have heard of a few rare instances of 4x2s with steel shafts. It really boils down to availability and personal preference.

What Else Will I Need To Swap Drive Shafts?
The only tool you will need to swap the drive shafts is a 12mm 12-point socket and ratchet. Unfortunately, that is not all that needs to be done. Remember that carrier bearing on your old drive shaft? It is attached to a frame cross member. That cross member must be removed too, and that is no easy task.
So, besides the socket for the drive shaft you will need an angle grinder with metal cutting/grinding wheel, a punch and heavy hammer.

Before You Remove the Drive Shaft
You will want to set the parking brake and block the wheels before removing the drive shaft. Having the transmission in Park will do nothing once the drive shaft is removed since the transmission will no longer be attached to the wheels.

Removing the Carrier Bearing Cross Member
The first step is perhaps the hardest: freeing the frame cross member that supports the carrier bearing. The cross member is held onto the frame with two large rivets on either end. In addition to the rivets, each end of the cross member has a tab that sticks through a small slot in the side of the frame.Here you see a cross section of the frame where the cross member is riveted on. The yellow piece is the frame rail, the green section is the cross member, and the red part is a rivet. The green arrow points to the cross member tab that sticks through a slot cut in the frame. The red arrow points out the head of the rivet.

Start by grinding the rivet head off. Hold the grinder so that the sparks fly away from the vehicle since the gas tank is nearby. If you need to, improvise a spark shield out of cardboard or some other suitable material to place between where you are grinding and the gas tank.

When the rivet head has been completely ground off you need to take your metal punch, a stout metal bar, or some other suitable tool and use a heavy hammer to punch the rivet up and out of the hole. Repeat for the second rivet on the side you are working on, then move to the other side of the cross member and remove those two rivets.

On 4x4 models, you will also need to remove the gas tank skid plate.

With the rivets removed, you will need to remove the tabs from the ends of the cross member. I used the grinder to remove as much of the metal as I could from end of the tab protruding through the frame, then used a chisel and hammer and pounded the rest of the tab back, bending it and getting it free from the slot in the frame rail. Alternatively, you could cut the cross member in two and then slide each end out.

When the cross member is free it should just be resting on the inside of the frame. Our attention now moves to the carrier bearing. It is mounted onto the cross member by two bolts. Remove those bolts.

Position a jack stand under the carrier bearing because once we remove the cross member, the bearing will not be supported. You will have to rotate the cross member in order to get it completely free and off the vehicle. Exhaust and fuel system components may be in the way. With a little work, the cross member should come out. With the cross member out, support the carrier bearing with the jack stand.

Note: This cross member's only function is to support the carrier bearing, therefore it is safe to completely remove the cross member and discard it.

Removing the Drive Shaft
The dive shaft is attached at the rear differential flange by bolts. You will need a 12-point 12mm socket or wrench to remove the bolts. Once all the bolts are removed, the rear of the driveshaft should come loose. If it is still stuck on the flange (which it very well might be), try giving it a few light blows with a rubber mallet. Just be careful to not damage the mounting surface on the differential side.

When the rear of the drive shaft is loose, slowly pull the front of the drive shaft (the slip yoke) out of the transmission (4x2 models) or unbolt the front flange from the transfer case (4x4 models). The old 2-piece drive shaft should now be free from the vehicle!

Installing the "New" Drive Shaft
Before you install the new shaft, lubricate the teeth in the slip yoke with a little grease. Also notice that there is one tooth missing, this is for indexing purposes. If you look at the transmission you will see how the slip yoke (front of the driveshaft) needs to be orientated to slip into the transmission. Now is also a good time to inspect the transmission seal and replace if needed (if it is leaking transmission fluid out of the output shaft - where you will be inserting the drive shaft).

Orientate the drive shaft slip yoke with the transmission and insert it. If it does not want to go in, slowly turn the slip yoke until the indexing teeth match up. Slide the drive shaft slip yoke in slowly until you can bring the rear of the drive shaft up and rest it against the differential flange.

With the rear flanges lined up, reinstall the 12mm 12-point bolts. Tighten the bolts a little at a time to even out the pressure, like when you tighten wheel lug nuts. Fully tighten them to 85 ft. lbs.

Release the parking brake and remove the wheel blocks.

And there you have it, a nice solid 1-piece drive shaft!

Some Additional Notes:
I got a lot of the information, especially concerning the 4x4 instructions, from this site. Many thanks to that article's author.

You can also see how I originally went about lowering the carrier bearing before I decided to simply swap drive shafts by reading this carrier bearing relocation article here.

I can also say that there were no clearance issues for me using an aluminum drive shaft in a 2wd truck. Some people say you may have to modify the floor boards or lower the transmission to accommodate the aluminum shaft's larger diameter, but that is not true.

Apart from removing the carrier bearing cross member, this was an easy and affordable swap that has completely eliminated the drive line vibrations I was having after lifting the truck.

Planting Fruit Trees

2009-04-22T01:00:00.000-04:00

As Spring is quickly blossoming and memories of freezing temperatures are quickly fading, we decided it would be a good time to start planting.

One Saturday's project was to plant four dwarf fruit trees along the edge of our driveway. We do not have much land since we live near the middle of the city, so the trees we picked had to be small. We will still have to prune them to keep their size in check if they survive and grow past these next couple of years.

Here are the steps we took to plant our sapling trees:

Carefully decided what types of trees we wanted and if the space we had to plant them was large enough, got the right amount of moisture, and had enough sun exposure.
Spaced the trees 10'-15' apart.
Dug a hole the depth of the tree's roots (the depth of the pot) and about 3 times the width; used a shovel to break up any large clumps of dirt.
We added some Peat Moss and Cow Manure/Humus Mixture into the hole for fertilizer.
Used a shovel to mix the peat moss and manure blend with the dirt.
Placed the tree into the hole with the base of the trunk at ground level.
Gently spread the roots out and loosened the root ball soil.
Filled the hole up with dirt and stepped on it to compact it and remove any air pockets.
Liberally watered the area around the tree. Placed more dirt around if necessary.
We still need to add mulch around the base of the tree. The mulch should be 2"-3" thick but should not touch the tree bark.

The best time to plant trees is in the Spring or Fall. Try to plant them when it is overcast or either early or late in the day.
We were lucky as it rained all day long and was overcast the day after the trees were planted.

An Afternoon of Planting Dwarf Fruit Trees
We planted a peach, apricot (ours is supposed to only get about 10' tall, not like this apricot tree, the largest in Nevada), and two plum trees. The plum trees were slightly different varieties but were recommended for cross pollination. We both cannot wait until they start producing fruit! (It can take a couple of years before they will produce anything, but when they do, they will pay for themselves very quickly.)

Here are some photos of our afternoon of fun in the dirt.

Four trees, peat moss, and 200 lbs. of cow "moonure" & humus mixture ready to go.

Hopefully within a few years there will be four fruit producing trees along this fence.

Everything is set in place.

Digging the hole.

Adding the peat moss and manure/humus. Does this qualify as a dirty job?

Mixing the soil, peat moss, and manure/humus.

Tree in the hole!

Filling the hole with top soil.

This peach tree has a new home (I hope it likes it)

Here's how the row looks now (it's hard to see a difference since the trees are so small)

Looking down the row of trees. I can imagine when they are 10' tall and producing all kinds of delicious fruit!

Tool Review: Firestorm FS200SD / Black & Decker BDTS200 10" Table Saw

2009-04-21T01:00:00.002-04:00

Table saws come in five basic designs:

Bench Top - Small and portable saws often sold as introductory table saws.
Contractor - Heavier duty motor and larger table than bench top. Motor usually drives a belt to turn the saw blade.
Hybrid - Motor from a contractor's saw with the design of cabinet saw
Cabinet - Large motor requiring 220 volt, 3 phase wiring (will not work with your standard household wiring). Has large table and is extremely heavy.
European - As large and expensive as a cabinet saw, these saws use a sliding table to move the work piece to the blade.

The Firestorm FS200SD and its identical twin, the Black & Decker BDTS200, are low-end budget bench top saws. The small table of this saw limits its use to small boards. You will not be able to rip full sized (4'x8') sheets of plywood on this saw without some serious modification or help. If you are planning on ripping long boards on this saw's scant table, I would suggest using an out-feed support jig. You can purchase one that is basically a roller mounted on an adjustable shaft, but a frugal alternative - which would probably be what you want if all you can afford is this table saw - would be to clamp an old paint roller to a saw horse.

Another quick and easy jig you can make for any table saw is a miter gauge extension. Simply take a straight board about 2"-4" tall and 8"-18" long and affix it to the front of your miter gauge so that one end protrudes past the blade. Then, with the blade set to its maximum height, run the miter gauge through so that the blade trims the wood extension. Now, when you place a board to cut on your table saw you can line up the cut mark with the edge of the miter gauge extension and you will know exactly where the cut will be made.

So How Good is the Firestorm FS200SD / Black & Decker BDTS200 Table Saw?As I mentioned before, this saw is priced as an introductory saw. At Lowes, it could be found for anywhere from $80-$130. That is very inexpensive for a table saw, but is it worth it to shell out that kind of money or are you better off if you save your pennies and put them towards a different table saw? Read on for more information that will help you make that decision.

The saw comes in a large box with the motor, blade assembly, and table pre-assembled. You have to assemble the stand with the provided hardware and instructions. It should take about half an hour; or, you can fore go the stand and clamp the saw on a workbench or table.

The table is made out of aluminum and, combined with the plastic housing, is very light. The stand also includes two wheels, so this is definitely back-friendly to move around the work shop.

Black & Decker included a rip fence that can be mounted in the integrated fence rail and can be adjusted to about 12" to the right side of the blade and 9" to the left. The fence locks in place by a cam lock activated by pushing the lever at the front of the fence down. With a bit of coaxing the fence can lock down square to the blade, but do not expect it to keep square. I was able to move the back end of the fence about 1/8" from side to side even after the fence was locked in place.

A miter gauge comes with the table saw as well. It fits into non-standard t-slots milled into the table top surface. You can adjust the miter gauge by loosening the bolt on top and rotating the gauge. There are no stops at common angles, so you will have to be very careful when setting the angle.

The saw blade that comes with the table saw is a generic carbide-tipped blade designed to be sufficient at most cuts. It actually leaves a smooth edge and performs better than I would expect with such an inexpensive saw. It can be easily changed to accept any blade up to 10" You can also use a stacked dado blade (up to 1/2" wide) with this saw, though you will have to make, buy, or remove a blade insert.

The controls for the saw on all on the front. The large, prominent wheel raises and lowers the blade. To tilt the blade (up to 45 degrees) you have to unlock the lever and then manually lift the blade assembly (using the blade height adjusting wheel as a handle helps) to the desired angle.
The on/off switch is a small toggle switch low on the base. I would much prefer a larger switch within easy reach. The small switch can cause a problem if you ever need to shut the saw off in an emergency.
Some other miscellaneous features and points about the Firestorm saw include a convenient miter gauge holder on the side of the saw. There are also threaded bolt holes on the right hand side of the table that you could use to build your own table extension. This tool comes with a dust collector bag which can help keep your work area clean, however sometimes I think the spinning blade actually sucks some of the dust out of the bag and spews it out into the air over the table saw. This saw seems to make a lot more dust than my other table saw.

What I Like

Light weight and portable
With some fine tuning you can get straight cuts
15 Amp motor has plenty of power
Table top is true and flat
Included blade works well

What I Dislike

Fence does not stay straight
Built-in rail system
Non-standard t-slot miter slots
Cheap miter gauge
Plastic housing
Small on/off switch located too far away from work area

Summary
Although the Firestorm FS200SD / Black & Decker can make a decent cut I think its small size and non-standard accessories severely limit its functionality. A good circular saw will be a much more useful tool for cutting large pieces of plywood and a good power miter saw will do just as good of a job cross cutting boards.

Woodworkers often say that the table saw is the center of the work shop. That may be true for the larger table saws, but this saw will probably be relegated to the side lines.

This Model's Rating
I will say this, if you need a small and simple table saw to make quick cuts on small boards, this table saw will be great if you can find it for about $50. If you need a table saw for jobs best suited for table saws, I would highly recommend saving your money and getting a contractor style saw.
With that being said, I think this saw does a satisfactory job at cutting wood - even thick wood, but due to non-standard miter slots and fence and rail system, there are no aftermarket accessories you can get for it. The non-standard miter slots really bother me because virtually every other table saw uses a standard 3/8" deep by 3/4" wide miter slot.

If you are looking for your first table saw, I would suggest browsing the used market. Free online classified websites, such as Craigslist, can have many table saws that offer so much more at similar prices. Or, if you want to buy new you can get some a decent entry level contractor's table saw in the $350 price range on sale. Yes, that is potentially more than twice the cost of the Firestorm saw, but if you buy the inexpensive Firestorm and out grow it within a year, you will be spending that money on a better saw anyway.

This Power Tool's Rating
Bench Top table saws are a niche product. They can be very useful filling this niche, but unfortunately they are also marketed towards novice weekend warriors and hobbyists who may not fully understand the tool's inherent strengths and weaknesses. I think the weekend warrior will be served by saving his or her money and completely skipping bench-top style table saws in favor of either a larger table saw or simply substituting a circular saw and miter saw.

Changing Your Car's Oil

2009-04-20T01:00:00.000-04:00

Changing the oil in your vehicle is one of the best ways to keep it in good shape, in fact, when most people think of mechanics and car maintenance, I am willing to bet the first thing that pops into mind is an oil change. A whole industry has emerged promising quick, convenient, and cheap oil changes - the quick lube shops.

DIY oil changes are a great way to save money, make sure the job is done correctly, and get more familiar with your vehicle. It is not very hard and requires a minimal investment in tools.

The location of the oil filter is the only significant difference between car models when changing the oil, so these instructions should be helpful no matter what type of car you have.Today's oil change will feature the family sedan, a Ford Five Hundred.

Parts and Materials

From Left to Right
Top: Catch Pan, Rag, Jack (with Handle), Jack Stand
Bottom: Ratchet, Oil Filter Wrench, Socket Extension, Socket, Funnel, Oil Filter, Oil

The Jack and Jack Stand are optional. You may be able to use car ramps to gain clearance. If your vehicle sits high enough you will not need anything, just crawl under it. If you do use a jack, you will usually only need to jack one side up enough to gain a little clearance. Remember to always place a jack stand under a lifted vehicle for extra support. Never rely on the jack alone!

There are also several types of oil filter wrenches. I prefer the cup style wrench that fits onto your ratchet (pictured). There are also strap style wrenches and large pliers oil filter wrenches.Pictured above are a cup-style wrench (actually two stuck together) and a strap-style oil filter wrench. What I like about the orange cup wrench is that it will fit multiple sizes of oil filters.

To remove the drain plug, you will need a socket with ratchet or a box-end wrench. I do not recommend using an adjustable crescent wrench because there is a good chance you will round the edges of the bolt off. Every vehicle I have changed oil in so far requires either a 13mm, 14mm, or 15mm socket/wrench to remove the drain plug.

Make sure to purchase the correct oil filter. Any auto parts store will be able to get the correct filter for you. The brand of filter you get is entirely up to you. For what it is worth, I prefer Motorcraft and Wix and I avoid Fram.

When choosing oil, make sure you get the correct viscosity. The oil viscosity, represented by a number with a W, a dash, and a second number (i.e. 5W-30), is the thickness of the oil. The number with the W represents the oil's thickness when it is cold out (think Winter). The higher the number, the thicker the oil. The second number is the oil's thickness at normal or operating temperature.
So, if a car is going to be driven in the cold winter of a northern state, which oil should you use, a 10W-30 or a 5W-30? If you said 5W-30 you are correct. The oil will be thinner when it is cold so that when you start the car, the oil will flow more freely throughout the engine providing lubrication faster than a thicker oil.

You will also have to choose between three basic types of oil: conventional, synthetic blend, and synthetic. To make matters even more confusing is that there are many different selections within the basic type of oil, for example you can get conventional oil for high mileage vehicles, anti-sludge oil, oil specially formulated for trucks and SUVs, and so on.
Basically, the synthetic oils will last longer before you will need to change your oil again.
There is a lot of information, misinformation, and opinions on motor oils. If you would like to really get into it, I would suggest visiting this site.

To find what type of oil your car uses you can consult your owner's manual, the oil cap, research it online or ask the person working at an auto parts store.

It's Time For An Oil Change
Some people recommend changing the oil when the engine is still hot. I prefer an engine that has been driven a few hours ago, that way the oil or exhaust system which you may brush against while under the car are not hot enough to burn you, yet the oil is still warm and will flow freely when we drain it. So, without further adieu, here are the oil change instructions:

Step 1 - Blocking the Wheels and Setting the Parking Brake
Since I will be using a jack to lift one corner of the car, I need to first block the wheel caddy-corner to the corner I will be lifting. I will jack the front passenger side up, so I will block the rear driver's side wheel and apply the parking brake.
Step 2 - Jacking the Front End Up
Find the jacking location nearest the corner you want to lift. On most cars, the jacking location is a notch in the subframe behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel. Raise the vehicle high enough to get a jack stand underneath.
Step 3 - Loosening the Oil Fill Cap
Open the hood of the car and loosen the oil cap.
Step 4 - Locating the Drain Plug and Oil Filter
Search underneath the vehicle for the drain plug and oil filter. The drain plug will be on the oil pan. The oil pan will be a ribbed metal pan and is attached to the bottom of the engine. the drain plug may be on the bottom or one of the sides of the pan. Note: your car may also have a transmission drain plug. Look at where the engine is from above, in a front wheel drive vehicle (almost all cars sold today), the engine will be offset to one side or another. Use this as a guide to distinguishing between the oil pan and the transmission pan.You will also need to find the oil filter. The oil filter will be very close to the oil pan, but may be farther up (when laying on your back looking up) the engine. On my wife's old 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, the filter was located in front of the oil pan but a plastic splash shield had to first be removed from the vehicle in order to reach it. On my brother's 1999 Nissan Altima, the filter was located on the back side of the oil pan and was tucked away, partially blocked by other engine components. On my 1996 Ford Ranger, the oil filter hangs down right beside the oil pan. On the Five Hundred, the oil filter is in plain site and is easily accessible (it is the blue canister in the photo below).
Step 5 - Draining the Oil
Now that you know where the drain plug and filter are, you can proceed to drain the oil. Position the catch pan under the car within convenient reach. It does not have to be below the drain plug just yet. With your ratchet and socket or box-end wrench, loosen the drain plug.If the plug is too stubborn to get loose with just a wrench there are a couple of tricks you can try. First, you can slip a length of pipe over the handle of your wrench to increase the amount of leverage you have. The length of the pipe will be dictated on how much clearance you have to turn it under the car.
Another neat trick to use if there is enough room around the drain plug, is to clamp a large pair of vice grips on the other end of your wrench. With two handles you can apply more torque with the wrench to get the drain plug loose.
With the drain plug loose, put your wrench out of the way, get your rag by your side and slide the catch pan under the plug. Continue loosening the plug with your hand.You will know when it is almost ready to come out because a small trickle of oil will start falling into the catch pan. I try to push the plug against the hole while loosening it so that the drain plug does not fall into the catch pan and become lost in a sea of used motor oil. Pull the plug away from the drain when the last threads of the drain plug are free and watch the oil pour out. Use your rag to clean your hand (no matter how quickly you pull the plug away from the drain you will get some oil on you) and clean the plug. If the plug or plug gasket are damaged, get a new one from the auto parts store (I've never had to do this so I don't think it is very common).When all the oil has drained (a drip every few seconds), clean the drain surface with your rag and reinsert the drain plug. Tighten the plug with your hand as tight as you can get it, then use the wrench to tighten it a little more. It does not have to be extremely tight, just a good snug fit with a wrench will be sufficient.

Step 6 - Removing the Oil Filter
This step can potentially be the hardest depending on who installed the oil filter the last time. If it was installed correctly, the filter should not be too hard, but I have run into cases where the previous person over tightened the oil filter making it nearly impossible to remove it.

The first thing you will need to consider is how to get at the filter. In some cases it may be simple, in other cases you may have to remove parts that are in your way. Once you can get at the filter try to loosen it by twisting it counter clockwise. Try using an oil filter wrench if you cannot twist it with your hand (see the oil filter wrench section under Parts and Materials).
With the filter loose, position the catch pan underneath and make sure your head and body are as far away from the oil filter as possible in case it falls down and splashes oil everywhere. Use care when removing the oil filter because there may still be a lot of oil in the filter and it is often messy when the filter comes all the way off.
Place the old filter face down on the catch pan so the oil drains and take a rag to clean where the oil filter mates to the engine.
At this point you can remove the catch pan from underneath the car and place it out of the way.

Step 7 - Installing the New Oil Filter
Take your new oil filter out of its box and pour a dab of new motor oil on it. Use your finger to rub that little bit of oil onto the entire rubber gasket.
Next, screw the new filter on. It does not need to be on very tightly. Do not use an oil filter wrench to tighten it or you will never get it off the next time you change the oil. Tighten it by hand. The rubber gasket that you rubbed the oil on will expand once the car is driven so there should be no worry of it becoming loose.

Step 8 - Filling the Engine With New Oil
Before you pour the new oil in, double check to make sure the drain plug and oil filter are installed correctly. When you are sure both are on, remove the engine oil cap and slowly pour the new motor oil in. Using a funnel will help a lot. When the correct amount of oil has been poured into the engine, replace the oil cap.
Step 9 - Clean Up
I like to use the same funnel and place its neck into the now empty bottle(s) of motor oil. Drain the used motor oil from the catch pan back into the empty bottle(s).
Most auto part stores will take used motor oil; other places that may recycle oil could be local recycling centers, automotive shops, and some gas stations. Check to see if they take old oil filters as well. If you cannot find a place that will take used oil filters, leave the filter upside down on the catch pan (like in the first photo of this article - see the blue filter?) for a couple of days. It takes a while for the oil to fully drain out. After that time and can dispose of the old filter.

End Thoughts
There you have it, a fresh fill of clean oil! Your car will thank you as will your wallet. Getting a "cheap" oil change around here costs about $20-$25 and most places use bulk oil and cheap filters. Some places also do synthetic oil changes but charge $40-$55. Using conventional oil, your oil change should be about $15. Using synthetic oil will raise the price to about $25-$30. I use mostly synthetic or synthetic blend oil and good oil filters and pay anywhere from $15-$28. The $15 oil changes are using fully synthetic oil I got on sale; you can sometimes find great deals out there!

And to close, how often should you change your oil? Trust me, there is a LOT of debate about that, so I will offer my opinion as just that, another opinion.

If you use conventional oil, I would go about 3,000 to 4,000 miles between oil changes. With each oil change, check the old oil that is draining out. If you stick your finger or the end of your wrench into the stream of draining oil you can make it fan out into a thin sheet. This will allow you to see through the oil and better judge its state. Do not judge used oil by its color alone. Just because it is a deep black does not mean it is bad and needs to be changed (though it often does).

You really want to watch out for a milkshake consistency, chunkiness, or small metal shavings in the oil. These all point to potentially severe problems. A milkshake look means you have coolant or water leaking into the engine which means a blown gasket. Chunkiness indicates you have a sludge problem, and small metal debris can indicate a wide number of possible engine problems.

So checking the condition of the oil will help you decide how long you want to go between oil changes. This is especially true when it comes to synthetics. A conservative time table for synthetic oil change intervals would be 5,000 - 6,000 miles. It is possible to go twice that distance if the oil and filter are still in good shape, but the only way to truly know that is by getting it analyzed at an oil laboratory. If you are interested in finding more about oil analysis you can visit this site.
As for me? I do 5,000 mile oil change intervals on the Five Hundred using a synthetic blend oil and every 6 months on my Ranger using full synthetic oil.

So I leave you with that. Congratulations on your oil change!

Looking Ahead: What is in the Works for Duae Manus?

2009-04-19T01:00:00.002-04:00

Here is a sneak peak of future Duae Manus posts:

Finishing the Kitchen Floor
Interior painting, crown molding, and adding chair rail
Creating custom home-made kitchen cabinets
More Under the Hood and other car parts identification posts
Replacing a driveshaft in a RWD vehicle
LOTS of DIY simple automotive maintenance like changing the oil, fluids, filters, and more!
How to do your own brake work
Several maintenance posts concerning automatic transmissions
Setting up your work shop
Quick tips - short but helpful tips covering a wide array of DIY subjects
Changing instrument cluster (dashboard) light bulbs
Building an entertainment center
Making built-in bookcases and desks
Gardening tips
Organizing your storage areas
Refinishing wood furniture
Creating wooden floor transitions
Paint project planning using Photoshop
Installing an exterior door and lockset
Tool jigs, storage, accessories, and tips
And lots of Tool Reviews including:

Task Force Jig Saw
An old Craftsman Table Saw
Angle Grinder
Firestorm Bench-Top Table Saw
Craftsman Router and Router Table
Porter Cable 690 Router
Bosch Router Table
Chicago Electric Drill/Driver
Chicago Electric 10" Sliding Compound Miter Saw
Dremel with Accessories
DeWalt Reciprocating Saw
And Many More!

There are still LOTS more to come! Make sure you check back regularly. In case you miss any posts or need to find an older one, use the CONTENTS section in the right column.

Making a Simple Wood Ladder

2009-04-18T01:00:00.000-04:00

Want a way to access the attic or space above the garage ceiling joists? Don't have the room or budget to add a stair case? Want something a little more sturdy than using a step stool while trying to access the storage space up there? Here is a way you can make a quick and easy ladder out of simple 2x4s that will be sturdy enough to inspire confidence while accessing the space above your garage.

Tools and Materials
You will only need a few tools to build your quick and easy wood ladder. First, you will need a saw. I recommend a circular saw but even a simple hand saw would even suffice. Next, you will need either a hammer and nails or a screw driver (power drill/driver recommended) and screws. You will want two clamps to aid in cutting the ladder rails, a pencil, and a tape measure. Finally, you will need at least three 2"x4"x8' boards (if your ladder is going to be taller than 7', get longer boards).

Planning
Before you make a single cut, you need to do a little planning. Where will the ladder be placed? How tall should the ladder be?
When figuring these things out, remember that the ladder will probably be at a slight angle when installed. If your garage does not have a ceiling and only exposed joists, consider making the ladder taller than the joists (not like in the photo above).
Also consider if you would like to add any features to your ladder. For example, if you have plenty of space above your head but do not want the ladder to constantly block the wall, consider putting the top of the ladder on hinges so that the ladder can be stored up against the ceiling and then pivoted down when you need to use it.

Making the Ladder
Select the two boards that will be the vertical rails of the ladder and clamp them together so that they are even.
Using a scrap 2x4 block, a pencil, and your tape measure, place the 2x4 block perpendicular to the clamped boards 16" from one end and mark both sides of the block. Move the block 16" farther down the clamped boards and make your two marks again. repeat the entire length.
It should look something like this where the red lines represent the pencil marks.
See those guides you made with the pencil and 2x4? Those will be grooves to hold the ladder rungs. Now it is time to make cut some wood!

Note: these instructions are for using a circular saw to make the cuts, but any saw could be used.

Set your circular saw's blade height to the same thickness of a 2x4 (about 1 1/2").
Cut along each of the pencil guides, then make repeated cuts between the pencil marks leaving little space between cuts.

The more cuts you make the easier the next step will be, because the next step is to take a hammer and knock the remaining bits of wood out of each groove. They should pop out easily and leave you with a nice square hole the same dimension as the width and height of a 2x4. Since both vertical rails of the ladder were clamped together, their rung grooves should line up perfectly too.

Don't unclamp the vertical rails yet! Now is the perfect time to adjust the feet and top of the rails. Decide which end is the top and bottom (mark them if you have to), then take the rails and lean them against the wall where you want your ladder to be. They should be leaning at about a 15 degree slope The feet of the ladder should be about 1/4 of the distance away from the wall as the height of the ladder. For example, if the wall the ladder is to be installed on is 8' high, the ladder's base should be about 2' away from the wall.

Find how much of an angle you need to trim off the feet in order for the rails to have maximum contact with the floor. One way to do this is to find the angle of the ladder leaning against the wall and then cut that angle out of the inside corner of the feet. Another way is to lean the ladder against the wall in its desired place, then use a small level to trace a line from the back corner of the feet and cut along that line.
You can do the same for the top of the ladder if you want but it is not as important, plus it largely depends on how you plan on utilizing your ladder.

Now it is time to cut the rungs. A good length is 16". This will allow over 12" of space between the rails which is sufficient to have both your feet side-by-side on the same rung.
With your rungs cut, place one in each pair of grooves you cut in the rails (now you can unclamp the rails). The fit should be snug, if it is too loose try adding shims.

With the rungs in place, nail or screw through the rung into the rail.

There you have it, a quick and simple wood ladder.

Remodeling the Kitchen - Part 3

2009-04-17T01:00:00.000-04:00

In Part 1 of our kitchen remodeling adventure we saw what we had to work with.
In Part 2, we came up with a plan and started demolition.
In this Part we will explore the floor, or at least the subfloor!

After the old sub floor had been removed and before the new sub floor could be installed the floor had to be leveled. Our house has settled towards the center leaving the outer edges higher than the middle. In most rooms the incline is not very noticeable, however the slope of the kitchen and breakfast nook were rather pronounced.
We briefly entertained the thought of having the center of the house jacked up and installing new support beams, but the myriad of problems that could have caused quickly extinguished the thought. Instead, we leveled the kitchen and breakfast nook floors by laying wooden boards perpendicular to the floor joists. These boards were ripped and cut at the proper angle to level the floor.

After the leveling boards were in place, a new subfloor of 5/8" thick OSB tongue and groove plywood was installed. This created a very strong and solid subfloor suitable for our ceramic tile installation that would take place shortly.

With the new OSB subfloor in place, it was time to tear down part of the wall that separated the kitchen from the beakfast nook. Before beginning, I had to remove an outlet, so I turned off the circuit at the breaker box and then removed the outlet. Next, I removed the molding and casement from the kitchen-breakfast nook transition. On the breakfast nook side of the wall section was a small pantry built into the wall studs. I removed the door and then only had to remove a couple of 2x4 studs and the 3/4" thick wood paneling on the kitchen side. To finish the job I used a reciprocating saw (sometimes called a 'sawzall') to cut through the wood and nails left in my way.

The breakfast nook along with the other rooms at the back of the house are part of an addition. When the house was first built, it looks like the kitchen had double doors that opened to the outside. The amount of wall I had removed brought that wall back to its original opening, except instead of double doors opening to possibly a grassy yard, it enters the breakfast nook room. I was not yet finished with the wall though, I had to get a metal electrical junction box and reroute some wires that had been in the old section of the wall. I put that in a cavity that would be enclosed when I put the new casing and molding up. I also had to cut a section of OSB plywood to complete the new subfloor (the section highlighted in blue in the photo to the right).

Here you can see the kitchen and breakfast nook with the new OSB subfloor. I've also highlighted where the old wall came to. I think you'll agree that the space is much more open now!

Here is another view from the breakfast nook looking into the kitchen:

We now had the floor level and a new subfloor installed. The next step? Starting the tiling project.

Drum Brakes

2009-04-16T01:00:00.000-04:00

Drum brakes, disc brakes, wheel cylinders, pistons, calipers, brake shoes??... If all these terms sound alien to you fear not. Modern braking systems found in today's vehicles are not as complicated as you may think, and servicing them is easily within the grasp of the home mechanic. In this post, I will give a little background information about drum brakes and then show you, step-by-step, how to service your drum brakes.

A Brief Look at the History of Drum Brakes
The predecessor to the modern drum brake was invented in the beginning of the 20th century and was used in virtually all vehicles until recent times. In the 1950s self adjusting drum brakes were invented, before then brakes had to be manually adjusted to compensate for brake wear. By the late 1960s and into the 1970s the front drum brakes on cars started to be replaced with disc brakes. Since then there has been a growing number of cars and trucks that have completely abandoned drum brakes in favor of disc brakes.

How Do Drum Brakes Work?
To understand how drum brakes operate, we first need to take a look at how they are constructed. As their name suggests, a drum brake consists of a hollow drum attached to the axle and wheel. The drum spins with the wheel. Inside the hollowed out drum are basically four parts: the brake shoes, wheel cylinder, self adjuster, and the parking brake pawl.

When you press the brake pedal, hydraulic brake fluid forces the wheel cylinder (colored green in the graphic) to extend two pistons out. These pistons are attached to the brake shoes (orange in the picture). The brake shoes are then squeezed against the inside of the drum (yellow in the picture). The friction caused by the shoes rubbing the drum slows the wheel down.
As the brakes are used, the shoe pads and the drum wear thinner. The self adjuster automatically compensates for this change in thickness. The parking brake pawl is basically a mechanical substitute for the wheel cylinder. When you activate your parking brake (sometimes called a hand brake or emergency brake), the pawl uses springs and mechanical devices to squeeze the brake shoes against the drum.

I Thought Drum Brakes Were Outdated, Why Do Some Cars Still Use Them?
Virtually all vehicles sold in the U.S. today use disc front brakes, however, some still use drum brakes on the rear wheels. Why is this? Well, for starters, the front wheels do about 70-80% of the braking, so the rear brakes do not get the same heat and friction abuse as the front brakes. Properly maintained drum brakes are more than adequate for rear wheel braking.
Another reason is cost, drum brakes are cheaper to make and install on vehicles, so it saves the car manufacturer some money.
A third reason is the simplicity of integrating the parking brake. There are no easy ways to make a disc brake operate like a parking brake, in fact, several rear disc brakes have built in drum brakes used solely for the parking brake.
Remember that rear disc brakes are not equal to front disc brakes. Rear brake rotors are not vented meaning they are usually less than half the thickness of front rotors. The brake calipers and pads on rear disc brakes (calipers are to disc brakes like wheel cylinders are to drum brakes) are smaller.
And finally, drum brakes may be making a slight come back. Some hybrid vehicles, like the poster child for hybrids, the Toyota Prius, use drum brakes on both the front and rear wheels.

How To Service Drum Brakes
In this section I will show you how I serviced the drum brakes on my 1996 Ford Ranger. Although this is specific to the 10" drums found on some Rangers, all drum brakes are very similar, so this walk through should be helpful to anyone working on any drum brake.

PARTS AND MATERIALS PURCHASED
1 Set of Brake Shoes ($21.99)
1 Drum Brake Hardware Kit ($6.69)
Brake Grease (~$2)
Brake Spring Compressor Tool ($7.99) Pictured at Right
Brake Spring Plier Tool ($7.99) Pictured at Right
2 Sets of Brake Adjuster Hardware Kits - Left and Right (~$10 each) OPTIONAL
Wheel Cylinder ($12.49 each) IF NEEDED
Brake Drum ($38.99 each) IF NEEDED
Brake Cleaner ($3.29)

(Prices may differ)

TOOLS REQUIRED
Jack
Jack Stands
Appropriate Wrenches to remove wheels
Needle Nose Pliers
Brake Spring Compressor Tool
Brake Spring Plier Tool
Vise Grips
2 Flat Head Screw Drivers
Catch pan
7/16 Brake Line Wrench (if replacing Wheel Cylinder)
1/2” Wrench/Socket (if replacing Wheel Cylinder)

*******

1. Release the parking brake, loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, chock the front wheels, jack the rear axle up and place it on jack stands. Remove the rear wheels.

2. Remove the drums. If they do not slide off you will have to retract the shoes. On the back side of the brake backing plate you will see a rectangular rubber plug near the bottom. Remove the plug and shine a light through the hole. You will see a wheel with teeth. Insert a flat head screw driver and rotate that wheel UP to retract the shoes.
This photo shows, from the inside, what you will be doing to retract the shoes. Circled in red is the rubber plug that needs to be removed. The green arrow shows the adjusting wheel. If the adjusting wheel does not turn, you may need to insert a second screw driver and depress the adjuster (the pivoting metal piece partially circled in red).

3. With the drums removed, you should see this:
Hopefully you will not see this:
Put both drums aside. You will need to work on one side at a time and use the other side as reference.

4. Place the catch pan under the brake assembly and liberally spray the brakes with brake cleaner. Let air dry.

5. Remove the Shoe Retracting Springs (A), the Adjusting Cable eye (B) and the Anchor Pin Plate (C). If you bought the hardware kit, the springs can be disposed but keep the adjusting cable and anchor plate.
Remove the Parking Brake Strut which is the metal bar just below the Wheel Cylinder with a spring on one end. The Wheel Cylinder in the above photo is the large horizontal cylinder in the middle of the photo, directly below the springs and above the wheel lug nut stud.

6. Now the Shoe Retaining Springs and Pins need to be removed. There is one per shoe. These can be discarded if you purchased the hardware kit.

7. Remove the Adjusting Screw (A), the Adjusting Cable (if it was not completely removed in step 5) (B), the Lower Spring (C), and the Adjusting Pawl and Spring (D). The Lower Spring can be discarded if you purchased the hardware kit.
The Primary Shoe should be completely free - remove it. The Secondary Shoe will still be attached to the Parking Brake Cable via the Actuating Lever. Separate them.

8. Everything except the Wheel Cylinder should now be removed from the brake backing plate. Now is a good time to spray down the brake with brake cleaner one more time. Let it air dry, then clean it thoroughly with a rag. Spray it again if necessary.
This is also a good time to take all the hardware and parts that will be reused and clean them thoroughly. I would suggest putting all the parts to be discarded off to the side but do not discard them yet - just in case you need to reuse something.

This is a good time to replace the Wheel Cylinder if you need to. If not, skip ahead to step 9.
WC1. If your brake looks like this:
You definitely need to replace the Wheel Cylinder (referred to as WC from here on out). If you are not sure if the WC needs to be replaced, carefully pull back on the rubber seals. If brake fluid escapes, you should replace or overhaul the WC.

WC2. The WC is held on by two bolts and the brake line that go through the brake backing plate. Use a 7/16” brake wrench to loosen the brake line. Use a 1/2” wrench or ratchet to loosen the two bolts. If they are on too tight, spray the area with penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Now would be a good time to start cleaning the parts while the oil soaks in.

WC3. Remove the brake line fitting - it does not need to be pulled back from the WC. Remove the two bolts.

WC4. Pull the old WC out and clean the mating surface before installing the new WC. Place the new WC in the slot, install the two bolts, and then install the brake line. These need to be tightened down pretty good. Now is also a good time to loosen the bleed valve to make bleeding the brake easier.

It should now look like this:

9. At your work bench, remove the retaining clip (C) that holds the Secondary Brake Shoe (A) and the Parking Brake Actuating Lever (B) together. I found it very difficult to remove without destroying it. You should have a new one in your hardware kit, but my kit came with only one new retaining clip but an extra shoe retaining clip.

The old Brake Shoe can be discarded but we will be reusing the Actuating Lever.

10. Install the Actuating Lever and retaining clip on the new brake shoe. Then install the Parking Brake Cable to the Actuating Lever making sure it is installed the correct way (use the other brake as reference). Let the brake shoe and lever hang down for now.

11. Apply Brake Grease to the shoe backing plates. Make sure you get all of them.
Lubricate the threads of the threads of the Adjusting Screw with brake grease.

Refer to this Photo for the installation steps:

12. Position the shoes, one at a time, on the backing plate. Insert the Shoe Retaining Pin from the back of the backing plate all the way through the shoe. Place a Retaining Spring over the pin, then use the Brake Spring Compressor Tool to install the Retaining Spring Cap (see the photo from step 6). This step can be very difficult by yourself because the brake shoe may not want to stay put while you try to install the retaining clip. Although not strictly necessary, I had a MUCH easier time performing this step with the brake spring tool. (PHOTO - A)

13. Install the parking brake strut with one end in the slot in the primary shoe and the other end in the Actuating Lever - not the Secondary Shoe. Use the other brake for reference.
Make sure the Wheel Cylinder pushrods are in the proper slots in the brake shoes. (PHOTO - B)

14. Install the Adjusting Screw into the bottom of the Shoes in its appropriate slots. The long end of the screw should be facing the front of the vehicle (PHOTO - C). Install the Adjusting Pawl and spring (PHOTO - D) and then the lower Spring (PHOTO - E).

15. Now for the top of the brake. Install the Anchor Pin Plate (PHOTO - G) and the Cable Guide (PHOTO - F). The cable guide should fit flush against the shoe. One of mine did but the other one took a little filing to get it to seat properly.
Install the eye of the Adjusting Cable (PHOTO - H).

16. Install the Shoe Retracting Springs (PHOTOS - I & J). This is where the Spring Pliers really come in handy. Slip the hooked jaw of the plier over the spring hook and place the end of the other jaw in a hole on the top of the opposite brake shoe. Then squeeze the plier handles together and the spring should easily slip over the stud. This method is so much easier than trying to strong arm the springs into place using vice grips.

17. Finally, route the Adjusting Cable around the cable guide and connect the hook at the end to the Adjusting Pawl. The hook should attach from behind the Pawl, not over top of it. You can lift the pawl up to make installation easy.

18. Make sure everything is seated correctly including the Wheel Cylinder pushrods, Parking Brake Strut, and Adjusting Screw.

19. If you have new drums, install them. If you are reusing your old drums, either have them resurfaced or at least scrub any hard spots with fine emory cloth.

20. From behind the brake, use your screw driver to push DOWN on the adjusting screw until the shoes come into contact with the drum, then back the screw off. If you installed a new Wheel Cylinder, now is a good time to bleed the brake. Remember to top off the brake fluid. The brakes should self adjust when you apply the brakes while going in reverse.

21. Now repeat for the other side!

Tool Review: Firestorm 5" Random Orbit Sander

2009-04-15T01:00:00.000-04:00

Detail: These are used to sand in tight areas, such as corners or oddly shaped pieces of wood like carvings or detailed furniture.
Palm: These sanders come in two basic shapes, the square and the pointed. Their purpose is very similar to the Detail Sander except they are a little bigger and can sand more wood faster. They typically use either a 1/4 sheet or 1/3 sheet of sand paper that can be attached either by hook and loop or adhesive backing. When using a palm sander, it is important to go with the grain of the wood to avoid leaving marks.
Random Orbit: These sanders use circular pads that usually attached to the tool by a hook and loop system. The sander rotates the pad in a circular fashion, but also adds a second random motion to the pad. This special random orbit motion allows the user to sand wood in any direction without leaving sanding scars. Random orbit sanders require special sanding discs that have a ring of holes in them for dust collection. When installing a sanding disc, it is important to line the holes in the disc up with the holes in the sander's pad. This type of sander is very versatile and should not be overlooked.
Belt: These sanders use a belt of sand paper stretched between two rollers. They remove wood very quickly and are great for rough sanding. Their straight sanding path limits their use to sanding with the grain of the wood only, and their large and flat sanding footprint restricts their use to large pieces of flat wood.

The Firestorm (Black & Decker) 5" Random Orbit Sander, like all random orbit sanders, is a very versatile sanding tool. It is small enough to do a lot of detail sanding, yet powerful enough to remove wood quickly for fast rough sanding. Sanding discs are readily available in hardware stores and, when purchased in bulk, are quite inexpensive. Although you can find discs in just about any grit, the most common I have seen have been 40, 80, and 120.

What I really like about random orbit sanders is that you can lead them across the surface of the piece of wood in any direction you want to. I find that it makes keeping an even coverage of the work area easier which results in fewer sanding "hills and valleys" in the wood.

If you need to get into tight corners, random orbit sanders will not be of much use due to their circular shape. Also, if you need to remove a lot of wood very quickly a belt sander will probably be of greater use. However, if your budget only allows to have one sander, I would recommend a random orbit sander above any other.

So How Good is the Firestorm 5" Random Orbit Sander?

Priced at around $35, the Firestorm sander is very inexpensive. But, like the Skilsaw I reviewed earlier, this is one inexpensive tool that is not a cheap tool. The Firestorm has a motor that has plenty of power for any sanding job. Built into the sander is a brake that will stop the sanding disc too much pressure is applied. This brake features is nice because it helps prevent damage to the tool, the wood, and it reminds the user to let the tool do the work.

The Firestorm sander has a jug style handle, a palm sized top, and a comfortable neck. Having three convenient and ergonomic places to hold onto the tool is an extremely welcome feature. It ensures that no matter what position you may be in relation to the sander, you will still be able to comfortably control the tool.

Included with this sander is a small dust collection bag. By directing some of the sanding dust into the bag, the Firestorm helps keep the work environment a little bit cleaner, which is especially helpful when working in the house. It would have been nice if the dust collection was a standard size to attach to a shop vacuum or shop dust collection system, but you may be able to find an adapter to do just that.

A couple of other things I like about the Firestorm are the 12' long power cord and the sealed on/off switch.

I have really liked using this sander with one caveat: it seems as if the pad which the sanding discs attach has become less capable of getting a tight hold on the paper. On more than one occasion I have had a sanding disc fly off the pad. The hook and loop system is very similar to Velcro, and the pad on the sander would get clogged with remnants from old sanding discs. After cleaning the pad by gently running a soft wire brush through it, I was able to get the discs to stick a little bit better. I am not sure if this is an issue with the sander or the sanding discs I have been using.

What I Like

Price
Three comfortable places to grip the tool
Ample sanding power
Sealed on/off switch

What I Dislike

Non-standard dust collection port
Sanding discs do not stay attached very well

Summary
I would have nothing negative to say if I had not had problems keeping the sanding discs attached to the sander. I am still not sure if this is a flaw with the sander or the discs but I am leaning towards the discs I am using. Over all, this has been a valuable tool with a lot of nice features and a frugal price tag.

This Model's Rating
I like everything about this sander except the hook and loop pad. If I could find a replacement pad, I would have nothing negative to say about the Firestorm 5" Random Orbit Sander. I would still recommend this model to anybody who needs a decent sander that won't burn a hole in the wallet.

This Power Tool's Rating
Random Orbit sanders should be in every homeowner's tool closet and every woodworkers tool chest. It was the only power sander I had for a year that saw many projects and I simply cannot imagine not having one at hand. I recommend this type of tool to any DIYer who works with wood.

Under the Hood - Inline 4 Cylinder 1

2009-04-14T01:00:00.002-04:00

* Engine bays are different between models of cars, however, most cars in the same class are similar enough that if you know your way around one you will be able to find your way around another.

This episode features a "new" car one of my brothers recently acquired. It is a 1999 Nissan Altima with the 2.4 Liter 4 cylinder engine. Click on each photo for a higher resolution view.

Engine Oil Cap
Engine Oil Dipstick (hidden from view in photograph)
Radiator
Radiator Cap
Upper Radiator Hose
Engine Coolant Reservoir
Windshield Washer Reservoir
Fuse/Relay Boxes
Battery
Air Filter Housing
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) location
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Power Steering Reservoir
Spark Plugs
Distributor Cap

Engine Oil Cap
Engine Oil Dipstick
Radiator
Upper Radiator Hose
Engine Coolant Reservoir
Windshield Washer Reservoir
Fuse/Relay Box
Power Steering Fluid
Spark Plugs
Alternator
Accessory Drive Belt

Spark Plugs
Distributor Cap
Lower Radiator Hose (barely visible in photo)
Battery
Air Filter Housing
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor location
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Brake Booster
Fuel Filter
Fuse/Relay Box

In these three photos, you can see the basic maintenance items common to most cars. I will write a brief description of each component outlined in this episode and, if applicable, any quick and easy maintenance checks you can perform on the component.

Engine Oil Cap - Add oil here

Engine Oil Dipstick - Use to periodically check the oil level in your engine. To check, remove the dipstick, clean it with a rag, and fully reinsert it. Remove the dipstick again and note the level of oil. If the oil is in the cross hatched area it is ok. If it is below, slowly add oil through the Engine Oil Cap until the oil level is within the cross hatched area.

Radiator - The radiator works to keep the engine from overheating. You can visually check the bottom for leaking coolant.

Radiator Cap - If the car has been used recently be very careful removing the radiator cap because the system will still be pressurized and hot steam could scald you. When in doubt, listen for a hissing sound when you turn the cap. If you hear a hissing sound, do not remove the cap. Otherwise, remove the cap and look at the coolant inside the radiator. If it is discolored (there are lots of different colors of coolant, so you will have to know the original color in order to know if the coolant's color is different) you may need to flush the cooling system. Also, make sure the radiator is full of coolant.

Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses - Visually check the hose for any cracks, holes, deterioration or any other signs of leakage.

Engine Coolant Reservoir - Check the level of coolant and make sure it is not above the "COLD MAX" line on the exterior of the reservoir.

Windshield Washer Reservoir - Open the cap and look inside. If you can't see any fluid, add fluid.

Fuse/Relay Boxes - To check a fuse, remove it and look through its side. If the wire connects the two prongs, it is good. If the wire is broken, the fuse is bad and should be replaced with a fuse with the same number.

Battery - Most auto parts stores can test your battery for free. Make sure the battery posts and wire terminals are clean and do not have any built-up corrosion. Corrosion will look like white, clumpy powder. To clean the posts and terminals, remove the negative terminal first, then the positive. You can use a wire brush, scrub pad, commercial battery post cleaner, or a 3:1 baking soda/water paste to scrub the battery posts and wire terminals clean. If you used any method that involved liquid or paste cleaners, allow everything to thoroughly dry before reinstalling the terminals onto the posts. Always reinstall the positive wire first, then the negative. You can smear a little petroleum jelly over the posts to help prevent future corrosion. (Note: after uninstalling the battery, the car may run slightly more rough than before because the car's computer's memory will have been reset and it will take a few miles for it to relearn its previous settings).

Air Filter Housing - The air filter is located in here. To access the air filter you will have to remove some clamps or screws (depending on the car). Pull the air filter out and visually inspect it.

Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) location - Inside the air intake tube (after the air filter) is the MAF. There is no regular check you can do, but if you ever need to clean the MAF due to a rough running engine, you can spray electronic cleaner spray over the wire.

Brake Fluid Reservoir - Visually check to make sure the fluid is at the proper level.

Power Steering Reservoir - Visually check to make sure the fluid is at the proper level. Some systems use a dipstick method of checking the fluid level.

Spark Plugs - Spark plugs do not need to be checked very often, usually about 30,000 - 60,000 miles.

Distributor Cap - Visually inspect for any cracks.

Alternator - Most auto parts stores can check your alternator for free. The alternator basically converts power generated by the engine to charge the battery and run the accessories, like lights and radio. When the engine is not running, the lights and radio run off the battery.

Accessory Belt - Some vehicles will have one serpentine belt, some have two belts - one that drives the Air Conditioning Compressor and one that drives the Alternator, Water Pump, and Power Steering. Visually check the belts for frays, cracks or missing chunks.

Fuel Filter - Fuel Filters can be located under the car near the gas tank, in the frame rail, or in the engine bay (like this 1999 Altima).

Lawn Mower Tune Up

2009-04-13T11:16:00.002-04:00

With Old Man Winter yielding to spring, the season of yard work is upon us. One of the universal lawn care jobs is mowing the grass. It would be wise to do a simple tune up before you bring your lawn mower out of the garage or shed were it was blissfully hibernating.

There are three basic lawn mower tune up tasks:

Changing the oil
Replacing the air filter
Installing a new spark plug

A fourth maintenance item that is infrequently needed may be sharpening or replacing the blade. I will only be covering the three common tasks outlined above.

Since there are several different lawn mower engine manufacturers, and each manufacturer has multiple engine models, you may have to slightly modify the tools and parts needed from the ones used in this tutorial. However, all 4 cycle lawn mower engines are very similar, so the steps of the walkthrough should still be of value.

Tools and Materials Needed

3/8" square drive or appropriate wrench/socket to remove oil drain plug (if equipped)
Catch pan for used oil
Small funnel
Appropriately sized wrench, large pliers or channel locks to remove old spark plug
Anti-Seize thread compound
Dialectic grease
Screwdriver and/or wrench to remove air filter
New air filter (consult your lawn mower manual for part number)
New Spark plug (consult your lawn mower manual for part number)
New engine oil (consult your lawn mower manual for type and amount of oil)

Procedure Summary

Drain the old engine oil into a catch pan
Pour new oil into the oil dip stick tube
Remove the old spark plug
Apply anti-seize to the threads of the new spark plug and install it
Apply dialectic grease to the inside of the spark plug boot and install it
Remove the air filter housing and the old air filter
Clean the housing and install a new air filter
Reinstall the air filter housing onto the engine

Walkthrough
Step 1
Pull the spark plug wire boot off of the spark plug. The spark plug should be mounted in the front of the engine. This will insure that by no means the engine can accidentally start and turn the blade while you are working underneath the lawn mower.

Step 2
If your lawn mower is equipped with an engine oil drain plug, tip the mower on its side to access the plug. It is helpful if the gas tank is empty. If you are not sure if your lawn mower has an oil drain plug, tip it on its side and look at the bottom of the mower. You should see a ring of bolts, these attach the engine to the mower body and are not drain plugs. If there is a single plug, probably with a square hole in it that a 3/8" drive socket fits, this is most likely the drain plug.
If the lawn mower does not have an oil drain plug, remove the oil dipstick and slowly turn the lawn mower over so the oil drains into the catch pan, then skip to step 4.

Step 3
This step helps if the mower is on higher ground than the catch pan. A simple way is placing the catch pan in the street and having the mower on the curb above it and some bricks, lumber, or anything else on the other side of the catch pan.
With the catch pan in place and the mower on its side, loosen the drain plug (1). Before the plug is about to come out, slowly return the mower half way to it upright position so that you can still reach the drain plug underneath the mower, but the plug is over the catch pan (2). Remove the drain plug and lower the mower so it straddles the catch pan (3). It will probably help the oil drain faster if you remove the oil dipstick from the top of the engine.

Step 4
Let the all the old oil drain out, then replace the drain plug (if equipped) or return the mower to its upright position.

Step 5
Place a small funnel in the oil dipstick tube and slowly pour the correct amount of new oil into it. When the correct amount of oil has been used, secure the tube with the dipstick - the oil change is done!

Step 6
Use a wrench, large pliers, or channel locks to remove the old spark plug.

Step 7
Apply a little anti-seize compound (found at auto stores) to the threads of the spark plug. Then, install the spark plug.
Step 8
Apply a bit of dialectic grease (found at auto stores) to the inside of the spark plug boot. Push the boot over the end of the spark plug until it seats itself - the spark plug change is done!
Step 9
Remove the air filter housing by removing a screw, bolt, or any fastener that holds it.

Step 10
Remove the old air filter and, if necessary, clean the inside of the air filter housing.

Step 11
Install the new air filter into the housing, and then install the housing to the engine - the air filter change is done!

Always remember to properly dispose of used engine oil. Most auto parts stores will recycle the oil free of charge as well as some recycling centers.

With that simple tune up, your lawn mower should be ready for another season of cutting the grass!

Happy Easter

2009-04-12T08:20:00.001-04:00

We wish you a happy Easter,
From the DIYer and the DIYerette.

Preparing for a Road Trip

2009-04-11T12:30:00.001-04:00

The streets and highways will be full of cars with the upcoming Holiday weekend just around the corner. If you will be traveling, take a few moments to make sure your vehicle is in good working order. Here are a few simple steps you can make to prepare your vehicle for your Holiday travels:

Check the air pressure in your tires.
Check the condition of your tire tread. A simple way is to insert a coin in the tread with the head facing down. If the tread does not come up to the head on the coin, it is time to get new tires.
Make sure all the fluids are at their proper levels. Fluids include the engine oil, transmission, brake, coolant, power steering, and windshield washer fluids.
Make sure your windshield wipers work properly.
Check your headlights and brake lights for proper operation.

Drive safely and have a great Easter holiday!

Remodeling the Kitchen - Part 2

2009-04-10T08:26:00.001-04:00

This is a continuation of our kitchen renovation story. In Part 2 we will explore the ideas my wife and I came up with for our kitchen remodel and we'll start the demolition!

The Plan
We decided that the old floor had to be leveled and the green vinyl had to go. In its place we wanted something sturdy, easy to clean, and classic. It also had to be something we could install ourselves. With that set of prerequisites we settled on laying ceramic tile. Although we didn't know with certainty what exact tile we were going to use, we knew we wanted something light and natural looking. Having light colored floors, walls and ceiling help make a room feel more open and the natural look of the tile would compliment the traditional feel associated with the rest of the house.

The old cabinets also had to go. The base cabinets were simply unbearable and had to be replaced. After a lot of thought I decided I would take the challenge of making my own set of cabinets - even though I had no tools or wood working experience (more on this later).

We also wanted to enlarge the opening between the kitchen and breakfast nook. At one time the transition between the two rooms had been wider, but previous owners added to the wall to make room for the refrigerator. We didn't like how that extra length of wall and the placement of the refrigerator created a distinct separation of the two rooms.

The Demolition
The first phase of our kitchen remodel was ripping out the old sub floor. In order to accomplish this, the old base cabinets had to be removed, all the appliances moved out, and the old floor ripped out. Underneath the green vinyl were a couple of other layers of vinyl flooring, and under those was the original tongue and groove plank sub floor.

We decided to keep the sub floor boards that were still in good shape since they were original and could be used to patch or re-floor rooms in future remodeling projects.

Here you can see the old sub floor being removed and the floor joists underneath. Our house was built over a crawl space, but unfortunately, needed a little extra support. We had a new support beam installed over a poured concrete footer to add some more strength to the new floor.

Here is a pile comprised of the old vinyl flooring that covered the kitchen and breakfast nook. I shed no tears to see it piled up waiting for a trip to the dump.

In the next installment of our Kitchen Remodel blog, we'll cover laying the new subfloor!

Tool Review: Skilsaw 7 1/4" Circular Saw, Model 5400

2009-04-09T08:57:00.001-04:00

Occasionally I will write a review of a tool I have used. In no way do I pretend to be a professional, as this blog should show, but I also have found some of the most helpful reviews to be by "average joes" like me. All the tools I will review should be within the budget for most homeowners and weekend warriors.

Description
Circular saws are real work horses and are good at many different tasks. Yet, being a jack-of-all-trades tool usually means it is a master of none. For every job the circular saw can be used for, there is a tool that can do a better job. For example, circular saws are often used to rip full sheets of plywood. This is a task they are good at, but a mid to high end table saw may yield better results. That is not to say the circular saw is bad, in fact, it is an incredibly valuable tool. The tools that out shine the circular saw's capabilities tend to be either very specialized or expensive.

The main use for a circular saw is making straight cuts through wood products no more than 3" thick. Not every DIY weekend warrior has a cabinet, radial arm, or panel saw, but you will not need any of these expensive tools to cut large sheet goods. This is where the circular saw can be an inexpensive substitute.

It can be difficult to cut straight lines free hand, but you can make a simple jig that will assure accurate cuts every time.

To construct the straight cutting jig you will need one board 4' long and at least 2" wider than the distance between your circular saw blade and the edge of the saw's foot plate, another board 4' long by 1"+ width, and some nails or screws:

Fasten the narrower board (green) to the wide board (blue) as shown in the picture. Make sure they are square to each other.
Position the circular saw on the jig as shown in the picture. The bottom board should extend a little past the blade. Run the saw along the guide while cutting the bottom board to the correct width.
Now all you need to do is line up your cut marks with the edge of the bottom board and you will have precise cuts every time! (Remember to add the thickness of the jig to the thickness of the board you are cutting when setting the saw's blade height)

So How Good is the Skilsaw 5400 Circular Saw?
There is no denying that this is a budget saw. It was the least expensive one at Lowes, where it retailed for about $30 in 2008. But do not let the inexpensive price scare you off. A lot of times a cheap tool is just that, cheap, but I prefer to call this a base model saw. Its low price reflects its simple design and lack of pizazz (if a power tool can have pizazz) instead of cheap craftsmanship and materials. More expensive models come with laser sights, better blades, and if you pay enough, completely different methods of spinning the cutting blade. However, with a straight edge and steady hand you do not need laser sights. The blade it comes with is adequate, not great, but adequate. Different blades are readily available, so it is hard to knock too much off for the included blade.

Adjusting the blade height is as simple as unlocking the adjuster via a lever, changing the height, and relocking it by tightening the lever. An indicator shows you what height, in inches, your blade is set to. Here is where a more expensive saw would have the nice feature of set height points for the most commonly used heights so you could easily and repeatedly set the height without having to eyeball the ruler line and the adjuster. But, considering this is a budget saw, it is hard to complain about the lack of features that, though nice, are not absolutely necessary.

The saw can also be adjusted to cut up to 45 degree angle beveled cuts. The bevel adjustment is very similar to the height adjustment in terms of simplicity and short comings.

Changing blades is also simple. There is no spindle lock on this model, so you must use a block of scrap wood to act as a brake for the blade. With the blade blocked by the wood, an included wrench is used to loosen the spindle nut.

The saw has plenty of power to cut through any wood I put in its path, as long as the blade is sharp. It is loud when being used due to its direct drive motor, so be sure to wear proper ear and eye protection.

The included blade is suitable for fast cutting 2x4s and plywood. However, if you want a cut that will leave a really nice and smooth surface, I would recommend buying a 60+ tooth carbide tipped blade.

What I Like

Price
Simplicity of design and use
Blade and Foot Plate are square to each other
Plenty of power

What I Dislike

Included blade is only adequate
Would be nice if the height adjustment locked into standard heights

Summary
This was one of the very first power tools I purchased when we moved into our first house. For a while it substituted for a table saw and power miter saw. Even now that my tool collection has expanded, I still find uses for the circular saw. The Skilsaw is a very sturdy power tool considering the budget price tag. It may lack some of the features of the more expensive saws, but what can be expected from the low end offering? This saw does its job well enough and, in my opinion, is worth having in any DIYer's tool box.

This Model's Rating
There is nothing that would keep me from buying another Skilsaw unless I wanted to upgrade to one with more features. It is a solid saw and if you do not need extra features and want to save some money I would recommend this saw.

This Power Tool's Rating
As I mentioned at the beginning of the review, I do not think circular saws excel in any one task, but the many jobs they can do well enough, plus their portability, make them invaluable tools. This is definitely a category of tool I would recommend having.

Quick and Easy Car Port

2009-04-07T14:23:00.006-04:00

If you do not keep your vehicle garaged or under a car port it will be subjected to some very harsh conditions. You will need to keep it clean by washing and waxing it on a regular basis in order to combat the detrimental effects the climate will have on your car's exterior. That is a lot of work and, if you are like me, it will grow very old very quickly.

Here's one possible solution - a cheap, easy, and quick car port. In order to construct such a port you will only need a chain saw or a very large hand saw.

Start by cutting down the largest tree you can find.
Position the tree in the place you would like to park your car (this step is much easier if you down a tree next to your parking place).
Next, use your saw of choice to hollow out a parking spot for your vehicle. If the tree is long enough, you can even make a two or three car car port!
Get a lawn chair out, a beverage of your choice, and sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Realize you forgot to move your car before cutting the tree down.

If you did it correctly, it just may look like this:

Cold Snap

2009-04-07T09:40:00.006-04:00

This past weekend was beautiful. Temperatures were in the 70s, flowers were blossoming and trees were budding. In a matter of hours, a large blast of Arctic air had settled deep into the heart of the States. This Arctic air brought freezing temperatures and even snow.

This cold snap has been more than a minor comfort inconvenience. The past few weeks of Spring weather has prompted the plants to come out of winter hibernation. A freeze at this point of the growing season can be catastrophic to delicate new plants. If you have plants that can be easily taken inside, remember to do so before it freezes! If you can't bring the plants inside, you can increase their odds of surviving the cold by covering them with plastic or a blanket. Alternatively, if you have a lot of leaves on the ground, you can pile them on top of the plants. If you use plastic, make sure to anchor it down to the ground with some stones, bricks, lumber, or anything heavy. Try to not let the plastic touch the plants (if possible).

Any sudden change in weather can have unwanted consequences around the home. A DIY type of person can have a lot of unplanned work as a consequence of the weather; a recent example is the ice storms we had a couple of months ago. Luckily for us, our roof was not damaged by the following hail storms, none of the siding was torn from our house from the tornado-like winds that storm brought, and we only have one tree, so limb clean up was minimal. Other people were not as lucky. Here are some photos of the ice storm.

Here you can see how thick the ice was on this plant.

Half of a tree just missed this boat!

These people's mess in their front yards was typical after the ice storm.

Encased in 1/2"-1" thick of ice, vehicles were very difficult to enter.

A Day Trip with a Can of Worms

2009-04-06T09:26:00.018-04:00

Ask any veteran DIYer and he or she will tell you that most of the time nothing goes as planned. A simple plumbing repair turns into a massive plumber's nightmare. A simple 15 minute vehicle repair turns into a six hour ordeal due to one stubbornly stuck bolt. Some call it opening a can of worms while others may call it the DIY Principle. I call it Inevitable.

Weekends can raise a dilemma for the DIYer, on one hand there is a chance to unwind from a long week's work, but on the other hand, the weekend offers a golden opportunity to get many projects started. This weekend I had a little bit of both. I spent Saturday making great progress with a couple of projects and Sunday afternoon was used to "unwind." However, the DIY Principle would make sure Sunday's recreational activity would carry with it a solid dose of frustration.

Sunday afternoon my wife and I met with two friends for a short canoeing trip. We loaded the canoe onto my truck and started on our ten mile journey to the river. Not even a mile before our destination I noticed a terrible repeating thump and bounce and immediately pulled over.
Yep, a flat tire.
Normally such an event would not be much more than a minor inconvenience. I would just put the full size spare on and be on our way, right? Well... you can call me guilty for not always practicing what I preach, because the full size spare was nine miles away, safely locked in the garage.
We jacked the truck up and removed the flat to inspect it. I had a can of Fix-A-Flat as a last resort back up, but it turned out the valve stem had cracked where it meets the wheel. This was the second valve stem that has gone bad on me within three months.

With a few calls I managed to get ahold of a friend to come and pick me up so we could take the tire in to get fixed. However, my worst fears and the DIY Principle came to light when a new valve stem was installed and the tire inflated: the tire had received fatal wounds in the form of four very large grapefruit-sized sidewall bulges indicating massive internal tire damage. I paid them to dispose of the tire, took my wheel, and went on to plan B: drive back home and get the spare!

With the spare on the truck, we were able to continue our afternoon vacation. We paddled down the lazy river until we came across the wreckage of an old steam ferry. The river was high enough for us to dock with the derelict craft and explore it. It was a lot of fun trying to figure out what had happened to the boat and how old it was. It looked as if it had caught fire since most of the remaining wood on the inside was badly charred.

After a few minutes we had searched through everything that we could without compromising our safety, so we returned to the canoe. Just as we all got it, the winds really picked up. What should have been a relaxed upstream paddle against a lethargic current turned into a demoralizing struggle against storm front winds. One gentleman on some docks we passed informed us there was a tornado watch in effect. We made it back safely and had the canoe returned to its storage before the storms hit, so in the end everything turned out well.

Thanks to the same fortion that spawns the Inevitable DIY Principle, our four hour trip turned into seven hour trip. Besides some very sore shoulders and back, it was well worth it.

Update: It seems as though there may be a batch of defective valve stems!
Link 1
Link 2

Base of Operations

2009-04-04T16:43:00.012-04:00

For most DIYers, there is a central hub that acts as the command center for all projects. This is usually a shop, garage, or workroom. Often times the DIYer has to compete for valuable space in the garage with the family car, or figure out how to organize all the tools and workstations in a woefully undersized space.

In my case, we have an unattached single car garage that fills the multiple roles of woodworking shop, mechanic's shop, and storage.

Balancing the many roles the small space needs to accommodate can be a challenge in itself, and I plan on delving deeper into that in a later blog.

When we moved into the house, one of the very first things I wanted to do was to convert the garage from a dirty storage place into a workshop. It took over a week to accomplish that goal because there was a lot of cleaning to do.

The first task at hand was removing the cardboard that covered the walls and ceiling. Large cardboard sheets had been

nailed over the wall studs, but some of it had gotten wet and was facilitating wood rot underneath it. All the cardboard and other garbage left over in the garage took more than four truckloads to dispose of. After everything remaining had been swept up we started to paint the walls. I decided to leave the wall studs exposed so I could integrate storage solutions with them.

Before long the walls were painted and I could start making "stud shelves."

Here is a photo of some early progress I made:

What I love about building storage space between wall studs is that you're not using any floor space! Plus, there are many creative storage solutions you could come up with, like tables that fold out of the wall, shovel and rake stand, and of course, shelves!

I'll show you just some of the things I've done to maximize storage and space efficiency.

Here is a lumber rack built into the wall. It is made by simply sandwiching the rack limbs between a 2x4 and the wall stud. Use lengths of 2x4s as spacers between the rack limbs. It's very sturdy and simple, now that's my kind of project!

Organizing and laying out your work area seems to be a never ending task. I am constantly revising and improving things to make the most use of space and ergonomics. Just remember to take a little time out of working on your shop area to complete a project or two!

Spark Plugs & the MAF

2009-04-03T16:40:00.013-04:00

A short while ago my truck started to act abnormal. My 1996 Ford Ranger has always been very reliable and the engine has run smooth even with nearly 200,000 miles on it, but one morning it started to run very rough. After the engine started, it would jolt and shake like it was missing or the timing was off. It was so bad it would shake the entire truck, but after a mile of driving everything was back to normal. That is, until you started the truck the next time.
I probably should have tried to fix the problem right away but I slacked in my mechanic duties and let it run in its unhealthy state for about a week. I did a couple of simple checks including cleaning the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor The MAF is a sensor made up of a thin wire stretched across the opening of a metal ring which resides somewhere between the engine and the air filter. It measures the amount of air the engine is getting and lets the car's computer (PCM) use the correct amount of fuel to mix with the air. Sometimes bits of dust can get past a faulty air filter or carbon varnish can build up on the thin wire and lead to incorrect sensor readings and, consequently, a rough running engine.

To clean your MAF you can follow these steps (these are the steps I used for my truck but it should be similar on most vehicles).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Disconnect the electrical harness to the MAF. This should be immediately after the air filter on the air intake.
3. Remove the air inake hose from the air filter housing. Look into the hose and you should see a metal ring with a v

ery fine wire stretching the length of the inside diameter. This is the MAF sensor.4. Remove the MAF housing from the air intake hose - on the Ranger it was held on my a clamp.
5. With easier access to the MAF you can take either specialized MAF cleaner or Electronic Contact Cleaner (aerosal cans) and spray the cleaner onto the thin wire. Be careful! The wire is very delicate and if it breaks you will be spending a nice chunk of change on a new one.
6. Spray the wire several times, allowing it to dry in between sprays.

7. Reinstall in opposite order.

But, I thought this post was about spark plugs, right? It is, because cleaning the MAF did not make my truck's new and undesirable symptoms go away.
Next on my list of things to check were the spark plugs.
I had put spark plugs in the truck when I first got it about 40,000 miles ago. At the time I did not know much abou

t proper plugs and have since learned that 99% of the people who know more about car mechanics than I do that I've talked to recommend against putting Bosch spark plugs

in a Ford.

On the Ranger's 4.0L V6 engine, the three spark plugs on the driver's side are relatively easy to get to. You'll need a 3/8" ratchet with a spark plug socket and having a swivel joint and a 6-8" extension make it even easier. While you're at it, get a pair of spark plug boot pliers - they make removing the spark plug boots much easier.
Do one plug at a time so you do not mix up the wires and the cylinder firing order. When you put a new spark plug in, I like to put the spark plug into the socket first, then install it into the engine. This avoi

ds any mishaps and dropping the spark plug while trying to manauver it into position. Before reinstalling the wire boot onto the new plug, coat the inside of the boot with dialectic grease (white greasy stuff you can get from any auto parts store).

The three plugs on the passenger side are a lot harder to get at. You have to contend with the AC system and HVAC hoses.
When I got to the last spark plug (and the hardest to get to) I found this:

The center electrode had disintegrated, leaving one cylinder nonfunctional.

With all new plugs, the truck runs like new. Problem solved!

I may run some Seafoam through the engine to clean any carbon build up from the cylinder that had the fouled plug. Seafoam is a petroleum based product that can help clean the inside of your engine. Where it cleans depends on where you use it; if you put it in your gas tank it will clean the fuel injectors. If you put it in the crankcase (oil), it will clean the lower portions of the engine. To clean the upper portion of the engine (pistons, rings, valves, etc) you can add it anywhere where it will go to all cylinders evenly, like through the brake booster vacuum line.

But I think I'm getting ahead of myself, maybe I'll do a Seafoam post in the future.

Remodeling the Kitchen - Part 1

2009-04-03T15:24:00.004-04:00

When we purchased our current house we knew it would need some work. Out of all the rooms in our 110 year old house, the kitchen and adjoining breakfast nook floors had the most pronounced incline from foundation settling, so we chose to start our renovation efforts with these two rooms.

On the left you can see three photos of the kitchen as it was when we first moved in. We quickly assembled a (mental) list of pros and cons for the kitchen.

Pros:
-We like the old wood paneling. The panels are a full 3/4" thick which is about twice the thickness of wood paneling you can buy from the big box home improvement stores today. The knotty pine also adds to the house's country charm.

-The fireplace and mantel are great additions to this kitchen's turn-of-the-century country atmosphere. Although the fireplace does not work, it serves as a great focal point for the room.

-The built-in shelf and cabinet in the NE corner of the room (adjacent to the fireplace).

-The space, the kitchen is roughly 250 sq. ft. which, although not huge, is ample space for our hard working kitchen.

Despite the cheery pros, there were some major cons that desperately needed to be addressed.

Cons:

-The floor angles from the high point along the outside wall down about 5" towards the center of the house.

-The dark green vinyl floor absolutely had to go!

-The base cabinets were under standard height to accommodate a previous owner who was in a wheelchair. This made it very awkward to work at the counter top and was literally a pain in the back. The cabinet drawers were also shoddily made and the layout and flow led to vast areas of unusable cabinet space.

-There did not seem like a great place to put the refrigerator. It looked as if previous owners in April of '56 (I found a signed board leading me to that date) extended the wall about a foot to make a place for the frig. This made a great work triangle between the frig, oven, and sink, but it also made the room feel a lot smaller and visually separated the breakfast nook from the kitchen.

With those thoughts floating around in our heads we came up with some ideas to address the worst offending issues. In short order I had made some conceptual drawings illustrating our most popular ideas for renovation.

In our next installment we'll explore the plans we came up with and start demolition!